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Great Korean adventure: Arrival of first American teachers (part 1)

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Jemulpo port in the late 19th century. Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection
Jemulpo port in the late 19th century. Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection

By Robert Neff

Harakin Hotel in Jemulpo in the late 19th century. Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection
Harakin Hotel in Jemulpo in the late 19th century. Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection
On the sultry morning of July 3, 1886, the Tsuruga Maru, a Japanese steamship, sailed into Jemulpo (modern Incheon) harbor. Along with its normal cargo, it also had five Americans aboard: Messrs. Dalzell Bunker and Homer Hulbert; Miss Annie Ellers and Mr. and Mrs. George W. Gilmore.

The men were the first American teachers hired by the Korean government and Ellers was recruited by the Presbyterian mission as a nurse in the government hospital.

Jemulpo was not an attractive port ― especially in the 1880s. Because of the severe tides, larger ships were forced to anchor a fair distance from the shore and goods and passengers had to be transported by sampans. Years later, Ellers recalled:

"They were manned by strange looking specimens of humanity, some fierce looking, with long braids of black hair down their backs and but little clothing on. They propelled their boats with a long stick in the back of the boat. A peculiar twist to this stick would send the boat forward with speed. Some of the men had queer knots tied on the top of their heads.

"All were talking, motioning and calling. Their clothing may have been quite white once, it was so no longer. They were bare-foot and looked like strong, wild men. Some boats were loaded with supplies for the ship, others were loading goods to be taken ashore."

Throughout the morning the Americans watched the port's activities from the safety of the steamer but after tiffin (lunch), the three men decided to go ashore and arrange for transportation to Seoul. Of course, precautions were taken ― one of the men had slipped a revolver into his pocket before going ashore.

The main street of the Korean settlement, circa 1901. Robert Neff Collection
The main street of the Korean settlement, circa 1901. Robert Neff Collection

That evening, when the men returned to the ship, they assured the women the Koreans "were a kindly-disposed people and the revolver [was] not needed." They also probably mentioned the port was actually divided into four settlements ― one each for Koreans, Japanese and Chinese and a general settlement where most of the handful of Westerners lived and did business.

A German, who arrived about a week later, seemed somewhat pleased with the Chinese settlement but had nothing but criticism for the Japanese settlement ― especially the buildings that he declared were "mainly made out of paper [and] are miserable." His criticism for the Korean settlement (which he mockingly called "The Holy Land") was even more scathing:

"The homes are made out of clay, straw and sod. I can't describe it in any other way. And in those huts the natives are not living but dwelling in squalor. The natives, whose principles are to work the least amount as possible, readily succeed."

In addition to the shops and homes, there were also three or four hotels (perhaps in name only) that catered to Westerners. Two were owned by Chinese, one by a Japanese merchant and another ― very popular with sailors ― was owned by an Austro-Hungarian.

While wandering about the port, the men had encountered an Englishman who helped them arrange overland transportation to Seoul for the following morning. Five ponies ― one for each man and two for small baggage ― and two rickshaws for the women would be waiting for them in front of Steward's Hotel (one of the Chinese-owned hotels) just after dawn.

It was stressed to the Americans that they must not dally, for Seoul's city gates would close in the evening and no one would be allowed to enter the city until the following morning.

That night the Americans went to sleep early ― lulled into slumber by the rocking of the steamship. They would start their great Korean adventure with the dawn.


Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books including, Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.





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