A Chinese couple captured by Kim Bo-sub / Courtesy of Noonbit Publishing

In the 1980s, Kim Bo-sub used to spend time with local artists in Incheon's Chinatown, located in the city's western coastal Jung District. The area was a trendy spot for painters and photographers like him, drawn to its unique and exotic atmosphere.

"I was told that the Chinatown area was dark and desolate at the time, with once-thriving Chinese restaurants and hotels either closed or abandoned," Kim recalled. "But that bleakness didn't bother me at all because the rich aromas of Chinese cuisine still filled the air."

An Incheon native, Kim expressed his fascination with the Chinese character of the area.

"There lived a mortician who owned a funeral home. Nearby were a mahjong house and old Chinese-style buildings, distinct in structure from traditional Korean houses. I heard that in the 1980s, as many as 10 households lived there together," he recalled.

Kim wandered through "Little China" from time to time to explore the Chinese way of life.

His bond with the Chinese immigrants — technically Taiwanese — began in the mid-1980s when he met a Chinese woman who asked him for a favor: to take portrait photos of her mother for her birthday. He accepted the offer immediately.

Ushered by her, Kim visited the elderly Chinese woman's home, took her photos, and presented them to the family.

An old Chinese lady with her granddaughter / Courtesy of Noonbit Publishing

Years later, he returned to the area with the woman's photos, only to discover that the elderly lady had moved to another part of Incheon. At that time, he was dedicated to a photo project about the Chinese community in Korea. He eventually reunited with the woman, thanks to a former neighbor who recognized her in the photos and informed him of her new address.

During the reunion, Kim noticed the old lady's deformed feet, a result of decades of foot binding — a Chinese custom that involved breaking and binding young girls' feet to alter their shape and size. This practice lasted for centuries and was banned in 1912. However, Kim learned that some older Chinese women still lived with bound feet. In 2000, he photographed another woman who had also experienced this painful tradition.

A Chinese chef and his assistants in this 1994 photo / Courtesy of Noonbit Publishing

The year 1992 marked a significant shift in the Chinese demographics in Korea, coinciding with the establishment of diplomatic relations between Korea and China. This change resulted in two distinct groups of Chinese residents: those who immigrated before 1992 and those who arrived afterward.

Kim Dong-ha, a professor of Chinese studies at Busan University of Foreign Studies, explained that the initial wave of Chinese migrants came to Incheon after the Joseon Dynasty signed a treaty with the Qing Dynasty in 1882, which facilitated maritime and overland trade between the two sides. "Approximately 90 percent of these early Chinese immigrants were from Shandong Province, likely due to its proximity to Incheon. They typically arrived by ferry," he noted.

Although originally from Shandong Province in eastern China, the early immigrants identified as Taiwanese, likely because they arrived in Korea before the establishment of diplomatic ties with China. "Scholars refer to these Taiwanese as 'old hwagyo,' in contrast to 'new hwagyo,' which refers to Chinese from the mainland and ethnic Koreans who came from China's northeastern provinces after 1992," Kim explained.

In contrast to the old hwagyo, who were primarily economic migrants and often self-employed in Chinese restaurants or shops, the Chinese who arrived in Korea after 1992 tend to stay for shorter periods. Many came for educational opportunities or as guest workers. A significant number of ethnic Koreans from China are employed in the service or manufacturing sectors.

A Chinese woman's foot deformed due to a lifetime of binding. Courtesy of Noonbit Publishing

Despite increasing tensions across the Taiwan Strait, Kim, the photographer, noted that few Taiwanese have shown animosity toward China or its mainland residents. "I met many people who expressed pride in China due to its rising global status as the world's second-largest economy after the U.S.," he said.

The early Chinese immigrants sparked a boom in Chinese cuisine in Korea.

"It is no surprise that the Chinese food Koreans currently enjoy is Shandong cuisine, as the early migrants hailed from that region," Kim said.

The descendants of early Chinese immigrants have worked hard to preserve their Chinese lifestyles, celebrating the Chinese New Year and other important annual events. However, Kim noted that the Chinese culture and traditions they practice in Korea are somewhat different from the original ones.

His deep interest in Chinese culture led him to join a trip to Penglai, Shandong Province, in 1995 with a Chinese acquaintance to visit relatives for the Chinese New Year.

"It was a remote rural area, and the people there were very nice and warm. On my first day, I was treated to dumplings," he recalled. "In the village, I was the only person with a camera. After getting their approval, I photographed them. Interestingly, none of them were shy. They posed proudly without hesitation. I felt at home. It was the most memorable trip I have had so far."

His trip to Shandong Province was educational, as it gave him a perspective to compare authentic Chinese culture and customs with those observed by Chinese immigrants in Korea.

Some of the early migrants in Incheon's Chinatown amassed considerable wealth as their Chinese restaurant businesses flourished, especially during the 1930s when Korea was under Japanese rule. News of delectable Chinese cuisine spread nationwide, prompting Koreans from Seoul and other cities to travel to Incheon for a meal. Among these establishments, Gongwhachoon gained immense popularity after "jjajangmyeon," a localized Chinese noodle dish topped with a caramel-flavored black bean sauce and sliced onions, became widely celebrated. However, the prosperous business in Chinatown started to decline after the Korean War (1950-53) when the government introduced regulations limiting foreign ownership of businesses and property.

The decline of Chinatown ensued, with Chinese restaurants and shops shutting down one after another as owners struggled to sustain their businesses amid mounting financial losses. Many left the area to establish themselves in other parts of the port city. Notably, the closure of Gonghwachoon in 1983 marked a significant event that symbolized the downfall of Incheon's Chinatown. The restaurant has remained abandoned for three decades.

Dusty chairs sit inside Gonghwachoon, a Chinese restaurant that is no longer open / Courtesy of Noonbit Publishing

Kim documented the deserted Chinese restaurant, capturing the dusty chairs left inside and the desolate landscape of the neighborhood to illustrate the rise and fall of the Chinatown district. He photographed Chinese immigrants, the schools they established for their children and grandchildren, and the churches they attended, tracing the footsteps of the early Chinese migrants. His 40 years of photographic projects have recently culminated in a photobook titled "Chinese in Korea," published by Noonbit Publishing.

Kim's photobook illustrates what Chinatown in Incheon was like before it underwent a major transformation.

"The area recently underwent a facelift as the city authorities renovated the neighborhood to attract tourists. However, this urban beautification project has come at the expense of Chinatown's identity. The current neighborhood reflects a version of China perceived by Koreans, rather than an authentic representation of China, which is quite regrettable," he said.