| Thanks to the River Elbe, architecture and cultural artifacts, Dresden earned the nickname 'Florence of the Elbe' and 'jewelry box' over the years. / Courtesy of Rachel Han Sang-hee |
STUTTGART, GERMANY ― Germany is located in a very strategic position when it comes to traveling. Both big and small countries surround the nation: to the north, there's Denmark, to the south there's Italy, the west the Czech Republic, Austria, Poland and to the east there's France, Belgium and the Netherlands. So it's quite natural to think about traveling out of the country, but there are in fact interesting, lesser-known German cities that offer more than beer and sausages. Like Dresden, nicknamed "jewelry box" or the Florence on the River Elbe.
Dresden is the capital of the Free State of Saxony region, a federal state of the eastern part of Germany, and shares the border with the Czech Republic and Poland. The River Elbe runs through the city of 2.4 million, creating a very Prague-like atmosphere. In fact, there are many Czech travelers, not to mention billboards, menus and various signs in Czech. Dresden was the royal residence of the Electors and Kings of Saxony, hence the many palaces, museums and artworks in and around the city.
Yet it did go through a rather rough period in history when it was bombed during World War II, which wiped out the city and killed some 25,000 civilians. Unlike other German cities like Cologne or Hamburg, which were much more prepared for such bombings and air raids, Dresden was less than prepared for the devastating incident, leaving the city into rubble.
It took more than 70 years to restore the grandeur of the city and now it has become both a cultural hub and a beacon of war recovery.
| A view of the Zwinger and one of the many decorative sculptures around the area. |
Altstadt
There's a reason why Dresden is called the "Florence on the Elbe." Even before the bombings, it was a famous cultural, architectural hub, with castles, cathedrals, museums within museums, fountains, arcades, theaters and markets within the Altstadt, or "Old Town," the historical center of Dresden.
Most of the buildings were reconstructed throughout the years thanks to the support and effort of the people and government, and now it's one of the most popular German cities to visit: a very unique place to enjoy the interesting mix of German and Czech, old and new and historical and cultural.
If there is one man that appears everywhere in almost every form within the city of Dresden, it's Augustus II the Strong, or in German, August der Starke. The Elector of Saxony and King of Poland not only appear in various shapes and sizes, including paintings, postcards, mugs, books and sculptures, he was also the reason Dresden became such a cultural hub: he had a very strong interest and desire in art and architecture and did everything in his power to bring those desires into the walls of Dresden.
Neustadt
While Altstadt offers the more traditional traits of European travel including museums, cathedrals and palaces, the Neustadt, or "New Town," presents a more hip and arty side of things. As soon as you cross the Augustus Bridge, which connects the two towns, you can instantly feel the difference. The area was already known to be quite an artistic neighborhood even before the fall of the Berlin Wall, and now it has become a must-see location for travelers and art lovers alike.
The Neustadt area has its fair share of historical monuments, including the Japanese Palace, the Three Kings' Church and the Jewish Cemetery, but it's the narrow streets of bars, cafes, clubs, art galleries, boutiques, hole-in-the-wall restaurants and theaters that attract visitors and make it stand out.
Walking along the streets, I would recommend to read the flyers and posters attached to the walls: Neustadt hosts various types of events, including literature salons, art events, food and drink tastings, food trucks, concerts and flea markets. I would almost always recommend searching for some places to go beforehand, but in the case of Neustadt, there's a lot happening then and there at the moment so I would suggest travelers to walk along the streets and choose a place or event that satisfy your personal preference.
Must-sees Altstadt: Frauenkirche
The name Frauenkirche literally means the "Church of Our Lady," and is considered one of the greatest examples of Protestant sacred architecture. The church also has one of the biggest domes in Europe, and perhaps due to the name, it does feel quite lady-like and feminine: the pastel colors that decorate the interior, smaller and more delicate decorations and paintings both in and out the church and the overall ambiance. It's also where you can climb up and get a glimpse of the entire city of Dresden.
Altstadt: Zwinger and the Dresden Castle
The Zwinger is a palace in Altstadt built in Rococo style, which served as a garden, gallery and festival court of the city. It's a very important starting point if you wish to explore the art and architecture of the old town. Currently, it is a museum complex that includes the Old Masters Painting Gallery, Mathematisch-Physikalischer Salon and the Porcelain Collection. Because the space was used to hold parties and festivals, the walls and balconies are very heavily decorated with various sculptures and fountains.
Meanwhile, the Dresden Castle, which is located very close to the Zwinger, was the residence of the electors and kings of Saxony. It is the home of the Green Vault, one of the oldest and most important art museums in Europe.
Meissen
Augustus II the Strong was famous for his interest in art and one of his favorites were porcelain. Not only did he collect them, he also officially founded a porcelain factory in Dresden and in another secure location called Meissen. There is an exhibition inside the Zwinger where you can find the king's collection, but you can also visit the small city of Meissen and take part in a factory tour. Meissen was the first place in Europe to develop hard-paste porcelain in 1708.
Altstadt: Fuerstenzug
The mural displayed on the outer wall of the Dresden Castle is hard to miss. First of all, it's huge and long, and second of all, there are always swarms of people taking photos. The Fuerstenzug depicts the ancestral portraits of the 35 electors, dukes and kings of the city on more than 23,000 Meissen porcelain tiles, making it the largest porcelain artwork in the world. Along with the 35 men, the mural also shows very detailed drawings of scientists, artisans, craftsmen, farmer and children.
Neustadt: Kunsthof Passage Dresden
The Neustadt of Dresden is arty in itself, but the Kunsthof Passage Dresden is where you can experience some very artistic buildings and artworks. It's basically a façade of buildings designed and decorated by local artists and divided into five different areas under specific themes: elements, lights, animals, mythical creatures and metamorphoses. There are also some shops and cafes along the narrow alleyways where you can learn more about the area and also purchase small souvenirs and artworks by local artists.
Rachel Sang-hee Han is a former staff reporter at The Korea Times and former editor at CNN Travel. She lives in Germany and runs a travel blog at rachelsanghee.com.