Taste 'sogokju,' Korea's traditional autumn drink

Bottles of Hansan Sogokju / Courtesy of Hansan Sogokju

Bottles of Hansan Sogokju / Courtesy of Hansan Sogokju

'Sit-down drink' from Baekje era offers glimpse of 1,500 years of history
By Lee Hae-rin

'Sogokju' is a Korean seasonal delicacy with the longest history as a traditional Korean alcoholic beverage made in the mountainous village of Hansan in Seocheon, South Chungcheong Province.

A light brown-colored, sweet-smelling, sticky rice-based beverage with a silky texture, it is known to have at least 1,500 years of history.

Sogokju is known to have been a popular drink for the royal family of the Baekje Dynasty (18 B.C. to 660 A.D.). Ancient records show that it has been handed down since the 918-1392 Goryeo Dynasty, and is said to be delicious only when made with water from a well at the foot of Geonji Mountain in Jihyeon-ri in Hansan.

A field of reeds in Hansan, South Chungcheong Province / Courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization

A field of reeds in Hansan, South Chungcheong Province / Courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization

It is also said that after the fall of Baekje, Hansan residents drank sogokju at the stream to appease their resentment.

Each brewery that produces sogokju in Seocheon has different manufacturing methods, so their taste is slightly different.

In 2015, it was used as the official dinner drink for a trilateral summit between Korea, China and Japan, while it was also selected as a holiday gift from the president and a special dinner drink at the presidential office that year, establishing itself as a representative traditional Korean alcoholic drink.

Hansan Sogokju is known as the so-called "sit-down drink," because of its delicious taste and high alcohol content.

Old tales tell that a daughter-in-law in old times opened the lid of the siru, sampled it, washed her chopsticks and got too drunk to be able to stand up.

Similarly, it is also said that a scholar who was going to Joseon's capital Hanyang, which is today's Seoul, to take a state examination for becoming a civil servant, stopped by a tavern to drink sogokju. He recited poems and enjoyed the moon scenery, but went back home after the past date.

Today, the tradition continues in Hoam-ri, where Hansan Sogokju master Woo Hee-yeol carries on her family's legacy of alcohol-making.

After the death of her mother-in-law, Kim Young-shin, Master Woo Hee-yeol inherited Chungnam Intangible Cultural Property No. 3 status in 1997. Since then, sogokju has been designated as Korea's food No. 19, continuing the legacy of sogokju, and her son, Na Jang-yeon, is now her successor.

From right, sogokju master Woo Hee-yeol and her son Na Jang-yeon / Courtesy of Hansan Sogokju

From right, sogokju master Woo Hee-yeol and her son Na Jang-yeon / Courtesy of Hansan Sogokju

Today, it is produced in breweries and homes across Hansan using their own secret methods, and there are currently about 70 breweries in the area.

Usually, sweet drinks are not suitable for meals, but Hansan Sogokju shows its true value when paired with rice and Korean dishes.

While Hansan Sogokju goes well with foods that are not strong, it also goes well with spicy foods because of its unique deep sweetness.

Due to Seocheon's geographic proximity to the sea, locals also enjoy sogokju with seafood as well.

Since 2015, the Hansan Sogokju Festival has been held in Seocheon every year in the last week of October. Visitors are invited to experience making and tasting sogokju.

Foreign visitors try Hansan Sogokju and Korean cuisine during the seventh edition of the Hansan Sogokju Festival held in Hansan in Seocheon, South Chungcheong Province, Oct. 27. Courtesy of Seocheon County

Foreign visitors try Hansan Sogokju and Korean cuisine during the seventh edition of the Hansan Sogokju Festival held in Hansan in Seocheon, South Chungcheong Province, Oct. 27. Courtesy of Seocheon County

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