[RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK] Was that the best chow mein I've had in Korea?

Pork chow mein at Wokster's Gyeongnidan location in central Seoul, Dec. 10 / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Pork chow mein at Wokster's Gyeongnidan location in central Seoul, Dec. 10 / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

By Jon Dunbar

There's very little that's authentic about North American-style Chinese food. It's typically overly sweet, greasy and often overpriced — plus, the quality can vary wildly from restaurant to restaurant or even within the same place. But it's still one of my most important comfort foods, dammit.

Korea has its own version of Chinese cuisine, so the North American style is a rarity. Fortunately, with the opening of Wokster restaurants across the country, it became a whole lot easier to find good-quality chow mein here.

There appear to be about a dozen Woksters across the country, with three in Seoul, three in Cheongju, North Chungcheong Province, and one each in Daegu, Incheon, Seogwipo on Jeju Island and Wonju in Gangwon Province.

Sometime really recently, the latest Wokster opened up on the corner of central Seoul's Gyeongnidan neighborhood, right on the corner by the underpass exit facing toward Noksapyeong. The first time I noticed Wokster, I ended up changing my dinner plans that night and going there. The storefront is deceptively small, but when you enter, you can see how deep it really goes.

Currently the menu seems a little lean, with eight main dishes, four chow meins and three fried rice dishes. There's no beef on the menu, with more of a focus on chicken, pork and seafood. Of those eight main entrees, half are shrimp-based. It may seem a little limiting, but I'm also looking forward to seeing the menu grow in the future, and I'm not bored of what I've tried after three visits there.

The star of the menu, as far as I'm concerned, after trying three of them, is the chow mein. I think it may actually be the best chow mein I've had in Korea. It's uncomplicated and tastes good while also not too greasy, and I don't get bored of it partway through.

I've also enjoyed the Sichun fried pork (hey, that's their spelling — the menu offers three different spellings of the same word) and the kung pao chicken. I'm a big fan of orange chicken, but I found theirs a little too doughy. However, I also liked the orange shrimp, so I'll give the orange chicken another chance next time.

The prices are what you'd expect in Korea: 16,000 won for entrees, with the shrimp dishes priced at 14,000 won for six and 23,000 won for a dozen, while the chow mein and noodle dishes range between 8,000 won and 11,000 won.

The one really good deal price-wise is on the drinks menu: a 300-milliliter glass of beer costs only 3,000 won. With a price like that, this could become a legit place to go for drinks.

If you opt for takeout, they have the right style of takeout containers.

Wokster, at least the Gyeongnidan location, is open every day except Monday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Visit @wokster_3.12 on Instagram for more information.

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