Star chef Edward Lee's quest for heritage, history, taste of Korea

Chef Edward Lee smiles as he attends a press conference after winning the Korea Image Awards, organized by the Corea Image Communication Institute (CICI), at a hotel in Seoul's Gangnam District, Thursday. Courtesy of CICI

Chef Edward Lee smiles as he attends a press conference after winning the Korea Image Awards, organized by the Corea Image Communication Institute (CICI), at a hotel in Seoul's Gangnam District, Thursday. Courtesy of CICI

By Pyo Kyung-min

For star chef Edward Lee, visiting Korea feels like living a new life.

"I'm 52, and at my age, most individuals don't have the chance for another life," Lee said during a press conference at a hotel in Seoul's Gangnam District on Thursday.

"To have this opportunity to visit Korea and meet new people has completely changed my life. I feel young again. I feel like a child. There's already a lot I know about Korean culture, but experiencing it here is entirely different."

From finishing as a runner-up in Netflix's hit cooking competition "Culinary Class Wars" to being recognized on Korean streets by fans eager to snap a selfie with him, the chef's journey in Korea felt like wonder after wonder.

This rediscovery extended to his mother, Lee Soon-ja, who accompanied her son on his current trip to Korea. Present at the press conference, she described witnessing her son's success in their homeland as "simply surreal."

"Coming to Korea with my son's sudden invitation and then seeing people recognize him on the streets and attending events like this all feel like walking on air," she said.

Chef Edward Lee, third from left, and his mother Lee Soon-ja, second from left, attend a press conference arranged by the Corea Image Communication Institute (CICI) at a hotel in Seoul's Gangnam District, Thursday. Courtesy of CICI

Chef Edward Lee, third from left, and his mother Lee Soon-ja, second from left, attend a press conference arranged by the Corea Image Communication Institute (CICI) at a hotel in Seoul's Gangnam District, Thursday. Courtesy of CICI

Lee and his mother visited Korea in line with the Korea Image Awards on Jan. 15, where the chef received the Stepping Stone Bridge Award for promoting Korea's reputation to the global audience.

While the trip itself is not rare for the chef as he frequently visits Korea for television appearances, including the ongoing "Chef & My Fridge" and the upcoming tvN series "Edward Lee's Country Cook" — this trip marked the first in a decade that he traveled with his mother.

The chef spoke fondly of how their bond deepened as he grew older.

"When I was a child, our family was far from wealthy. My mother worked early mornings and returned home late at night," he recalled. "We didn't spend much time together, but growing up as an adult, I understood why she wasn't home."

Food eventually became the bridge that brought them closer.

"We got closer when I became an adult. We used food as a way to communicate. It became a very important way for us to talk," Lee said.

Chef Edward Lee competes in Netflix's cooking contest show “Culinary Class Wars,” which premiered in September 2024. Courtesy of Netflix

Chef Edward Lee competes in Netflix's cooking contest show “Culinary Class Wars,” which premiered in September 2024. Courtesy of Netflix

For the chef, cooking is obviously more than just sustenance — it's a medium for storytelling.

"Every chef has a different approach, and there's no right or wrong. That's what makes cuisine beautiful— everyone has a unique perspective. For me, since I majored in literature, food is always a story," he said.

"I don't cook just to make delicious food. Food is my paint. When I have something to say, I can't paint or play an instrument. Food is my means to talk because I'm a chef and cooking is the only thing I'm good at. You can cook to make money or for your family, but I think some chefs cook because they have something to say."

Lee's deep appreciation for storytelling in food is part of why he loves Korean cuisine. To him, it embodies not just stories but an entire history.

"Korean food starts with 'jang' (traditional fermented sauces), which has such an ancient history. The flavors come from generations. Eating and making Korean food feels like you're tasting history. It's delicious, and fermented food makes you crave more, but it also makes you think about the past," he explained.

"Traditional food from different nations aren't just trends and to think about how it has fed a nation for generations just feels so amazing."

Guest Chef Edward Lee, center, flanked by White House Executive Pastry Chef Susie Morrison, left, and White House Executive Chef Cris Comerford, talks about the menu during a preview of the State Dinner with  Korea's President Yoon Suk Yeol at the White House in Washington DC, in this April 24, 2023 file photo. AP-Yonhap

Guest Chef Edward Lee, center, flanked by White House Executive Pastry Chef Susie Morrison, left, and White House Executive Chef Cris Comerford, talks about the menu during a preview of the State Dinner with Korea's President Yoon Suk Yeol at the White House in Washington DC, in this April 24, 2023 file photo. AP-Yonhap

As Korean food gains global popularity, Lee offered a fresh perspective on the phenomenon, drawing from his experiences in the U.S.

"When I was a young chef in restaurant kitchens, chefs my age hung out after work late at night, but there's usually nothing to eat. In New York's Koreatown, places were open 24 hours. My American friends and I would go there and eat kimchi, 'galbi' (grilled ribs) and 'seolleongtang' (ox bone soup) … We were all young back then and now we all have our own restaurants. That influence was crucial," he said.

"Additionally, my generation — children of Korean immigrants — have pursued our own dreams while appreciating Korean culture and bringing creativity to it. Over the past 10 to 12 years, that appreciation skyrocketed."

Despite his desire to connect with his roots, Lee doesn't consider himself a traditional Korean chef.

"At the end of the day, I'm an American chef. When I cook, I focus on expanding Korean ingredients. I do make certain dishes like 'kimchi jjigae' (kimchi stew) and 'jjajangmyeon' (black bean noodles), but I don't call myself a 'hansik' (Korean food) chef. I want to credit the chefs dedicated to traditional Korean cuisine — they are the masters. I'm someone who wants to be creative."

Although there is great demand from Korean fans eager to taste his creations, Lee's respect for Korean cuisine has kept him from opening a restaurant in Korea — for now.

"I don't want to open a restaurant and then just leave. I don't want to disappoint Korean people. If I open one, it will be when I can fully commit my time and energy. Maybe in a couple of years," he said.

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