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A behind-the-curtain look at Hermes' craftsmanship in Seoul

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At its 10-day exhibition, 'Hermès in the Making,' mounted at Lotte World Tower's World Park in southeastern Seoul, the French luxury design house offers a behind-the-scenes glimpse  into its artisans at work to demonstrate how they design, create and repair some of the brand's most timeless products. Courtesy of Hermès

At its 10-day exhibition, "Hermès in the Making," mounted at Lotte World Tower's World Park in southeastern Seoul, the French luxury design house offers a behind-the-scenes glimpse into its artisans at work to demonstrate how they design, create and repair some of the brand's most timeless products. Courtesy of Hermès

French luxury maison, Korea Heritage Service join hands to restore royal artifacts
By Park Han-sol

Some partnerships, though surprising at first glance, simply click.

Such was the case when Hermès, with its 187-year legacy rooted in the virtue of craftsmanship, announced its collaboration with the Korea Heritage Service (then the Cultural Heritage Administration) back in 2015. Their shared goal? To restore the country's centuries-old palatial furniture.

Over the next nine years, with the support of the French luxury brand, treasures that once embodied the courtly splendor of Joseon royalty at Seoul's Gyeongbok Palace and Deoksu Palace were brought back to life through artisanal repairs and recreations. Among them are a silver-inlaid candlestick and a crimson, dragon-engraved chair reserved for kings.

With the support of Hermès, treasures that once embodied the courtly splendor of Joseon royalty at Gyeongbok Palace in central Seoul have been brought back to life through artisanal repairs and recreations. Courtesy of Korea Heritage Service

With the support of Hermès, treasures that once embodied the courtly splendor of Joseon royalty at Gyeongbok Palace in central Seoul have been brought back to life through artisanal repairs and recreations. Courtesy of Korea Heritage Service

"What is important for Hermès is to recognize exceptional craftsmanships wherever they are," said Guillaume de Seynes, the fashion house's executive vice president and a sixth-generation member of the Hermès family, reflecting on the partnership.

"It's about [forging] that fraternity between craftsmanships around the world. That's why I think this [project] on the royal palaces in Seoul is a fantastic one."

And this month, the French maison offers another special cultural treat for Korea that equally extols the idea of artisanship: the "Hermès in the Making" exhibition. Seoul is the 10th destination for this unique — and free — traveling show, which opened last Saturday at Lotte World Tower's World Park in southern Seoul.

Installation view of 'Hermès in the Making' / Courtesy of Hermès

Installation view of "Hermès in the Making" / Courtesy of Hermès

As its title suggests, this 10-day exhibition is all about offering a rare behind-the-scenes peek into the world of Hermès' artisans at work, most of whom have flown in from their workshops in France to demonstrate how they design, create and repair some of the brand's most timeless products.

Any fashion-loving visitor is free to get up close and ask questions to the 11 craftspeople — experts in leather-stitching, engraving, watchmaking, silkscreen printing and ceramic painting — spread across nine different stations within the box-like gallery.

Screenprinting artisans apply luscious colors onto expansive rolls of white silk twill using a mesh frame — a spectacle that ultimately brings the maison's iconic silk scarves to life. Courtesy of Hermès

Screenprinting artisans apply luscious colors onto expansive rolls of white silk twill using a mesh frame — a spectacle that ultimately brings the maison's iconic silk scarves to life. Courtesy of Hermès

Twenty-two steps are required to create a pair of Hermès' leather gloves. Courtesy of Hermès

Twenty-two steps are required to create a pair of Hermès' leather gloves. Courtesy of Hermès

At one workbench, you can watch screenprinting artisans apply luscious colors onto expansive rolls of white silk twill using a mesh frame — a spectacle that ultimately brings the maison's iconic silk scarves to life.

In another corner, a saddler is assembling cocoa-colored leather pieces on a central wooden frame and meticulously hand-stitching the product. He shared that he plans to complete one entire Vivace jumping saddle during the Seoul exhibition period.

Or perhaps, you will get to witness just how much saber-hacer and dexterity go into the making of a five- or six-figure Kelly bag, where over 40 leather pieces are stitched together using beeswax-coated linen threads.

Since all Hermès bags are handcrafted in France, their metal accents like buckles and snaps can be affected by Korea's humidity over time. Or, sometimes, they might simply need a little sprucing up. That's when repair specialists — some of whom are stationed in Seoul — step in to give them a new lease on life.

Stone setting is a technique used to securely attach gemstones into jewelry. Courtesy of Hermès

Stone setting is a technique used to securely attach gemstones into jewelry. Courtesy of Hermès

The 11 craftspeople in the "Hermès in the Making" show represent just a fraction of the luxury house's trained artisans. In France, over 7,300 are currently working across its nearly 60 workshops and production sites.

De Seynes stressed that in today's world of mass production, where the identity of product makers fades into anonymity, Hermès' commitment to keeping the spirit of craftsmanship front and center in its legacy is more crucial than ever.

Artisans are the human agents who animate and breathe new life into the heritage passed down for six generations, thus making the maison's products the result of an ever-evolving "creative tension," he noted.

"Hermès in the Making" runs through May 27.

Park Han-sol hansolp@koreatimes.co.kr


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