Oliwia In is a Polish haenyeo and a trainee of Jungmun Fishing Village in Seogwipo, Jeju Island. Haenyeo refers to female divers of Jeju Island, designated as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2016. Courtesy of Oliwia In

SEOGWIPO, Jeju Island — While the haenyeo, Korea's legendary female divers of Jeju Island, often go unrecognized in their own country, there is a Polish woman who has taken the plunge, literally, into the life of a haenyeo.

Oliwia In's move from Poland to Seoul in 2009 was an adventure, but her relocation to Jeju Island in 2022 opened a new chapter. Originally arriving with a love and curiosity for the island, In found herself drawn deeper into the local culture, diving shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the most resilient women she has ever met.

Seen are diving and fishing tools used by Oliwia In, who came to Jeju Island with her love for the haenyeo culture. Courtesy of Oliwia In

Warsaw to Seoul to Jeju

While In was still living in Seoul, her fascination with Jeju led her to write "Koreanska Syrena," or "Korean Mermaid," a novel about a young haenyeo, which was later translated into English under the title "Haemi."

"I quit the company I worked for in Seoul when I wrote my book, so I didn't have reasons to stay in Seoul. I wanted to live on Jeju Island, so I came here with my husband," she told The Korea Times during a recent interview.

Though she originally had no intention of becoming a haenyeo, her deep interest in their culture led her to meet both veteran and novice divers, gaining insights into their diverse motivations. "I realized that not all of them became haenyeo because they loved the sea," she said.

Despite her own fears of the deep sea, these encounters sparked a growing respect and ambition within her and led In to apply to the Beophwan Haenyeo School in Seogwipo, on the southern coast of Jeju Island.

"I didn't come to Jeju to become a haenyeo, but I always wanted to contribute to preservation and revitalization of the haenyeo culture … I thought that if I became a haenyeo myself, I would still be able to spread the word about haenyeo culture through me, as a foreign haenyeo."

The reality at haenyeo school surpassed her expectations, with a diverse array of students drawn to this ancient profession.

"Haenyeo school classmates are so diverse," she said, adding many of her classmates are from the mainland, with fewer locals from Jeju itself. "Some arrive with romanticized notions of being a haenyeo, influenced by media or a simple love for the ocean. They are like 'I love the ocean,' 'I've been free diving' or 'I thought I could make a lot of money by becoming a haenyeo.'"

However, the reality of the rigorous and demanding nature of the work quickly dispels these illusions. Still, some choose to become a haenyeo even after their fantasies are shattered.

Unlike the informal training the earlier generations of haenyeo received from family members, today's curriculum at haenyeo school emphasizes safety.

"In the past, women learned diving and fishing naturally from their families, where their main goal was to survive, with little formal safety instruction," In said. "Now, the training is more safety-oriented, incorporating theoretical knowledge introduced by free diving."

Polish haenyeo Oliwia In walks toward the sea in her diving suit. Courtesy of Oliwia In

Haenyeo life

In is a trainee of the Jungmun Fishing Village fraternity, determined by her local address. This small community of six haenyeo has been particularly welcoming.

"They treat me warmly because they know about my book and my interest in the haenyeo culture," she said.

Haenyeo typically dive in the early morning, beginning their work before 7 a.m. and wrapping up around noon. The afternoons are reserved for other tasks as they often work at community restaurants or sell the seafood they've caught earlier in the day.

During her internships, In experienced a glimpse of this rigorous routine.

"I dived for about three hours and I had to take my whole afternoon off to regain strength," she said. "The real haenyeos are still busy in the afternoon. I heard that, in the past, after a morning of diving, haenyeos would spend their afternoons farming."

Haenyeo working styles vary depending on the local fishing communities.

"Some go into the sea from ships, while others gather seafood from the shore," In explained. The haenyeo community is divided into three classes — upper, middle and lower — based on experience and capability. The upper-class veterans can dive as deep as 20 meters, though typical boat dives range from 10 to 15 meters."

These seasoned haenyeo dive and collect shellfish for hours, which In describes as "extreme," even among physically demanding jobs.

"I am in the lower class, which is for newcomers like me or very old haenyeos," she said. "In my case, it takes me a while to dive in and out and catch my breath. But the real veterans never stop — they dive, surface briefly to check their surroundings and then plunge right back in."

Being foreign and less experienced, In is cautious and deeply respectful in her interactions with the community.

"I try to integrate in and respect their culture as much as possible and they try to understand me as well," she said. "For example, local haenyeos hold rites for Yongwang (dragon king of the sea), but I do not join the rites because I am a Christian … But I visit them often even on non-diving days and help them with chores such as creating promotional materials and online shopping for the village."

In's firsthand experience diving with these modern-day mermaids has deepened her commitment to learning and preserving the haenyeo tradition.

"They're like real mermaids, a job that goes beyond human limits. It's amazing to observe them closely — it seems unbelievable that they manage this physically demanding job at such an age," she marveled.

A group of haenyeos dive and collect shellfish at Gwangchigi Beach in Seogwipo, southeastern Jeju Island, June 3. Yonhap

Adapting to modern lifestyle

Recent cultural recognitions have begun to shift perceptions of haenyeo from merely hardworking fisherwomen to custodians of a key cultural heritage. The haenyeo of Jeju Island have been listed as Korea Important Fisheries Heritage in 2015, UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2016, Korea's National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2017 and Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System in 2023.

"The haenyeo themselves didn't realize how amazing they are. It was just a normal way of life for them," In said.

The veteran haenyeo of Jeju are renowned for their exceptional strength and resilience, developed in an environment that demands both physical and mental toughness. These women have historically played a vital role in sustaining Jeju's economy, forming a formidable community.

However, according to statistics from Jeju Island, the number of haenyeo dropped to 2,839 as of 2023, falling below 3,000 for the first time. More alarming is that 96.5 percent of haenyeo are over the age of 60.

Misconceptions about the income potential of haenyeo persist, rooted in memories of a more abundant sea from eras now gone. "There's a rumor that haenyeos make a lot of money, but it's not true anymore. The environment and weather have significantly reduced the number of days for diving," In said.

In response to these challenges, the Polish expatriate is part of a new generation of haenyeo who are diversifying their roles, balancing this traditional practice with other elements to adapt to contemporary lifestyles.

She advocates for the evolution of the haenyeo role into a part-time profession, complemented by other forms of employment to reduce economic pressures. "If young people realize they can maintain the haenyeo culture while also pursuing other activities, it could make the profession more attractive," she said.

Growing recognition and pride in haenyeo could be key to motivating more young people to consider this unique profession. Also, Korea's growing interest in free-diving and surfing might play a role in attracting newcomers with a deep affection for the sea to haenyeo culture.

"It's a suitable job if you love the sea and nature, offering a way to earn some extra money," she said, highlighting that a flexible approach to ensure the sustainability of haenyeo traditions and appeal to younger generations.