Ryu Ji-hwan performs what is legally classified as a surgical procedure by Korean law. Courtesy of Ryu Ji-hwan

A tiger and serpent tattoo by Ryu Ji-hwan / Courtesy of Ryu Ji-hwan

Tattooing is still illegal in Korea, but that hasn't prevented it from being part of hallyu, or the wave of Korean popular culture sweeping the world.

Korea's medical law, which defines tattooing as a surgical procedure, bars anyone but licensed medical doctors from inking art on the skin. This has resulted in a substantial tattoo industry operating without regulatory oversight. Korean tattoo artists work in the shadows in their home country and are increasingly traveling abroad to promote their work, finding that they are welcomed like rock stars in countries where tattooing is legal.

Ryu Ji-hwan, who works at SHARP Ink in western Seoul, estimates he has visited at least 10 countries as a guest artist.

"Many people overseas are already aware that tattooing is still illegal in South Korea. They often see talented Korean tattoo artists on social media and say, 'Why is it still illegal?'" Ryu told The Korea Times, before boarding a plane to head off for another tattoo world tour that will take him through three undisclosed European countries over two weeks.

Ryu has been a longtime member of Korea's underground extreme music scene, best known as the frontman of D-beat noise punk band Scumraid founded in 2011. It was this environment that led him to his life of "crime."

Ryu Ji-hwan leaps during a Scumraid set at Club SHARP, Nov. 3, 2018. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

A frog tattoo by Ryu Ji-hwan / Courtesy of Ryu Ji-hwan

"In Korean society, where tattoos have been taboo, young punks who wanted to rebel against the older generation often got tattoos to express their beliefs or tell a unique story," he said. "Growing up with those punks, I was exposed to many tattoos, which always served as a great inspiration for me. Historically, tattoos have also been a symbol of rebellion, sharing similarities with punk, and I found that intriguing. This connection gave me the motivation to learn tattooing."

As he honed his musical talents, fronting what has widely been called Seoul's loudest band, he also cultivated his artistic skills, designing show posters, album liner notes and band logos.

His career as a tattoo artist got its first start during a drinking session in 2016 with Ryu Jin-suk, frontman of ska-punk band Skasucks and owner of Club SHARP as well as SHARP Ink, when they discussed an apprenticeship.

Ryu emphasized that there were complex reasons behind his decision to accept the offer.

"It wasn't an easy decision," he said. "I knew that many creative fields I've been interested in or experienced require a deep commitment, and approaching them lightly often leads to leaving them just as easily. Becoming a tattoo artist comes with the heavy burden of having to study and hone the craft for a very long time, so I needed time to make up my mind."

After a few days of deliberation, he decided to go for it, and he's been working there ever since.

Over the years, Ryu has developed his own unique, distinctly Korean style of tattoo, inspired by traditional Korean arts and folklore as well as religious iconography.

A tiger and magpie tattoo by Ryu Ji-hwan / Courtesy of Ryu Ji-hwan

"My artwork isn't strictly religious, but it is influenced by religious art, connecting those lingering images in my mind with various themes," he said. "I grew up in a religious household. On my father's side, we were part of a large family in the countryside that followed traditional shamanistic beliefs and Buddhism. As a young child growing up in that rural environment, I was deeply influenced by the shamanistic and Buddhist imagery that was intertwined with the natural world where I played freely. These vivid images left a strong impression on me, and now I try to express those powerful visuals through my art."

His interest in Korean folk art, or "minhwa," influences his coloring, as well as his use of animals, especially tigers, dragons, serpents and birds, which feature in much of his work.

His extensive travels have also influenced his work.

"I've traveled to many traditional tattoo shops around the world, forming meaningful connections and engaging in artistic exchanges," he said. "I've learned about their sincere approach to tattooing, which has influenced my own style — not just in my drawings, but also in my mindset. I came to understand that the world of tattoos is more profound and deeply connected than I initially thought. I'm deeply grateful to each and every client who recognizes my work and chooses to come to me for their tattoos."

A back piece by Ryu Ji-hwan / Courtesy of Ryu Ji-hwan

The continued lack of a legal basis for his work in Korea hasn't hindered him that much. He compares Korea's current situation to the state of New York, where tattooing was illegal from 1961 to 1997.

"Despite this, many underground tattoo artists continued to develop their craft in the shadows," he said. "After tattooing became legal in New York, the legacy they left behind served as a great inspiration for modern tattoo artists and provided the foundation for continuing both traditional and new businesses. I feel that the current situation in Korea is similar to this, and I am determined to continue creating my artwork steadily."

Ryu Ji-hwan at work / Courtesy of Ryu Ji-hwan

In the time since he began tattooing, he has seen public attitudes toward tattooing come around significantly.

"I used to have a negative view on this," he admitted. "The tattoo culture I knew was hidden and had to be unique to be considered cool. However, I eventually realized that you can't stop the flow of culture. Everything evolves and gets absorbed, so I believe that the tattoo business will naturally evolve as well."

Now, he thinks it's only a matter of time before Korea legalizes his profession.

"The fact that it's illegal means that some people are uncomfortable with it," he said, "but since this cultural trend can't be forcibly stopped, I believe that, eventually, the majority will agree with it, and it will become legal."

Follow @fuzzzzzzyy on Instagram to see Ryu's artwork.