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RESTAURANT OF THE WEEKPerch wins attention with pierogi Tuesday

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Pierogi are served with bacon, onions, chives and sour cream at Perch in central Seoul's Haebangchon neighborhood, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Pierogi are served with bacon, onions, chives and sour cream at Perch in central Seoul's Haebangchon neighborhood, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

By Jon Dunbar

Perch Seoul Coffee and Cocktails, a recently opened establishment in central Seoul's Haebangchon neighborhood, has been getting unexpected attention for one particular specialty: its pierogi.

Pierogi (which is actually a plural word in the original Polish) are dumplings associated with the cuisines of several Central, Eastern and Southeastern European cuisines, including Poland, Ukraine and Russia. They're also popular in parts of North America where immigrants brought them there, including Edmonton, my hometown, which is sometimes nicknamed "Edmonchuk" due to its large Ukrainian Canadian population. Pierogi is similar to other dumplings in wider regions, including Korea's "mandu," but not close enough if you're in search of a comfort food that reminds you of your grandmother's cooking.

Soo-young, Perch's owner, said she taught herself pierogi-making through YouTube videos after a Korean Canadian friend complained about not being able to find them in Korea. At that time, she didn't anticipate she would end up making pierogi every night.

Stuffed with potato and ricotta cheese, Perch's pierogi — which some people might prefer to identify as varenyky — are fried up in bacon grease and onions and served also with chives and sour cream. They're as good as homemade and way better than anything that comes out of a freezer. Even my baba would have approved.

Every Tuesday is pierogi night, where you can get a full plate for 10,000 won ($7.47), but you can order them on any other day as well at the still-reasonable price of 13,000 won.

There's also a gumbo Sunday, and the menu has a few other foods, including chicken and vegan tenders, Cajun fries, onion rings and fried oysters.

Perch's food menu is thin, as it isn't primarily a restaurant for serving food.

The significantly more extensive drinks menu consists of coffees, teas, cocktails, non-alcoholic cocktails, wine and beer. On tap are OB Lager for cheapskates, a refreshing IPA from Ganadara Brewery based in Andong, North Gyeongsang Province, and two flavors of hard seltzer. The menu also offers muffins.

I just hope Soo-young isn't allergic to money, because I have more of it I want to pay for more of her pierogi for a long time to come.

The interior of Perch is nice, sort of reminiscent of Social Haven, where Soo-young worked previously, but with a split-level structure separating the bar area from the front seating. There is also a charming outdoor terrace space built around the side of the building.

The terrace of Perch / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

The terrace of Perch / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Perch is located in the same building as the 7-Eleven at the bend in Sinheung-ro, close to Nostress Burger and Hair of the Dog. It opens every day of the week except Monday at 1 p.m. and stays open until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday and midnight during the other days. Follow @perch_seoul on Instagram for more information.



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