Song Seong-ja, Korea Grand Master No. 87, hardens minced beef on a grill with a kitchen knife over a pit of briquettes inside the kitchen of Songwol Kwan in Dongducheon, Gyeonggi Province, Sept. 26. Korea Times photo by Ko Dong-hwan

DONGDUCHEON, Gyeonggi Province – Song Seong-ja, head chef of Songwol Kwan, a renowned tteokgalbi (grilled short rib patties) restaurant in Dongducheon, Gyeonggi Province, still expertly manages double-sided wrought-iron grills with minced beef, despite her age of 75 and petite frame. Positioned over a long pit with four fiery briquettes beneath, Song remains focused on her grills, a testament to her dedication and skill.

The intense heat from the briquettes, burning fiercely red and yellow, cooks the raw meat rapidly. Song flips the large grills constantly to ensure both sides of the meat are cooked evenly — any delay would quickly blacken the texture. She also opens the grills slightly, using a kitchen knife to press the minced meat into a firm, square shape. The heat causes grease to drip down into the pit like raindrops, a key reason why she avoids using an oven. The dripping grease could alter the temperature and affect the meat's quality.

After about 15 minutes of precise, rhythmic cooking, a batch of eight tteokgalbi pieces is ready. She garnishes each patty with two slices of mushroom and savors the satisfaction of completing the task amid the heat.

"We still uses briquettes for savory patties. It's a real extreme job in the summer," Song said during an interview with The Korea Times.

For Song, Korea Grand Master No. 87, the ordeal at Songwol Kwan has defined much of her life. After marrying in her mid-20s, she began working at the restaurant, which her mother-in-law had started after the Korean War. Song took over the business in 1976. Today, her two daughters are involved as well, with the eldest overseeing the dine-in hall and the second managing nationwide delivery shipments.

Making tteokgalbi involves human labor throughout every step, from deboning short ribs to marinating, mincing, and grilling the beef. As a result, there is a limit to how much she can sell each day for dine-in and delivery. This labor-intensive process is also why she has turned down offers to franchise her food.

But she takes pride in her food, using 100 percent short rib meat without additives like flour, eggs, or other types of meat to ensure high quality.

"We've had many visitors from outside the city. Back when there weren't many places to eat in Dongducheon, we were quite bustling with visitors, including celebrities and politicians," Song recalls. "When the U.S. soldiers' camp was active in this city (Camp Casey of the United States Forces Korea, now relocated to Camp Humphreys in Pyeongtaek, Gyeonggi Province), foreigners often held parties here."

Song Seong-ja in front of Songwol Kwan, Thursday, next to an engraving that reads the restaurant's exterior was renovated in July 2020. Her father-in-law started the restaurant there in 1920 under the same name. Korea Times photo by Ko Dong-hwan

Legacy should continue

Song hopes to pass on her tteokgalbi skills to her eldest daughter. The Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs shares this hope, having granted Song the grand master title in 2020 after she proudly applied for it for the third time. In recognition of her legacy, she has designated her eldest daughter as her successor.

"My husband used to help manage the restaurant, but he passed away recently, so my eldest daughter has taken on his responsibilities," Song said. "Now, with my acceptance of the grand master title, she is also entrusted with preserving our legacy."

To the government, Song's expertise in making tteokgalbi using traditional briquette grilling is regarded as a valuable national heritage that it aims to promote worldwide. To ensure its preservation, the government provides systematic support that enables Song's daughter to learn directly from her mother.

The program, designed to maintain traditional Korean food, beverage, and liquor-making techniques through 80 grand masters across the country, has allocated a state budget of 300 million won ($223,000) for 75 trainees this year. Additionally, the government invests 400 million won annually to preserve these traditions by creating a historical archive. So far, the archive has documented data for 52 grand masters, with the compilation of information for another 10 currently in progress this year.

The ministry also allocates 870 million won each year to select new grand masters, providing consultations for those interested in becoming one, and operating the Korea Food Grand Master Center in Seoul. This center serves as an exhibition space where visitors can engage in hands-on experiences by making and tasting the products crafted by these experts.

The Korean Food Grand Master association, supported by the ministry, advocates for the country's grand masters. Established in 2004, the association aims to ensure the continuation of these masters' craftsmanship through the next generations and to enhance the rights of these experts.

Yoo Cheong-gil, an expert in makgeolli — Korea's traditional milky rice wine — serves as the 11th chairman of the Korean Food Grand Master association, representing the organization while running the Geumjeong Sanseong Makgeolli winery in Busan. He is recognized as the country's Grand Master No. 49 and was the first makgeolli maker to receive this honor in 2013.

"We are committed to identifying individuals dedicated to preserving their predecessors' traditional craftsmanship and supporting their missions with the assistance of the agriculture ministry," Yoo said.

"We will continue to promote the irreplaceable talents of grand masters and ensure their legacy endures through apprenticeship programs."