Mount Inwang towers over Gyeonghui Palace in downtown Seoul, as seen in this 2015 photo. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Korea has four seasons. Seoul has five royal palaces. These numbers have been set in stone for years, driven into us at every opportunity. But lately, we've been seeing mention of only four palaces in downtown Seoul.

The K-Royal Culture Festival happens at only four palaces. Only four palaces offer free entry during Chuseok. However, the latter may be due to the fact that the fifth, Gyeonghui Palace (or Gyeonghuigung as pronounced in Korean), never charges admission. Even the Korea Tourism Organization neglects to mention this redheaded stepchild of palaces, instead directing people's attention to Jongmyo Shrine.

So what gives? Where is the love for Gyeonghui Palace?

Three foreign experts on Seoul history and tourism contacted by The Korea Times were divided on the palace's significance, but all agreed on the royal palaces in central Seoul numbering six, not four and not five. And no, the sixth is not Jongmyo, which is a royal ancestral shrine for past kings of the 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty.

"Gyeonghuigung is No. 6, where you go if every other palace is closed or full," said David A. Mason, a retired professor of tourism. "But there is one aspect of it I love, the far-rear 'garden' of bare rock, with a little spring, which the king reportedly loved — in fact, why he built the palace there."

He added that his pick for the fifth palace was Unhyeon Palace, which had been the residence of Heungseon Daewongun, father of King Gojong, as well as the king himself until he ascended the throne at age 12.

Joe McPherson, founder of The Dark Side of Seoul ghost tours, also said central Seoul has six palaces, but he gave the sixth spot to Ingyeong Palace, which is modern-day Seochon.

"There are really SIX palaces. One was starting construction and was dismantled. It's now a park," he said. He added that this was discussed in The Dark Side of Seoul podcast episode on Gyeonghui Palace, titled "The Most Haunted Palace in Korea."

Gyeonghui Palace began construction in the 1600s during the reign of King Gwanghaegun. It served about 10 Joseon kings. It is situated west of the other palaces, on a slanted piece of land, with a breathtaking view of Mount Inwang to the north, which dominates the palace's surrounding scenery.

Scenery of Gyeonghui Palace, April 16, 2019 / Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Mason also addressed the geomantic significance of the palace's location.

"It is the end point for the good 'pungsu jiri' (feng shui geomantic energy) that runs from the mighty peaks of Mount Inwang down through the Dangun and Sajik shrines, then finally stops there," he explained. "I do feel a positive 'energy' there and experience happiness; the water is very good, too. Beyond that point further south is bad pungsu jiri — Jeong-dong, which is why Taejong's stepmother-queen's tomb was there and why they put the foreigners there."

Shawn Morrissey, one of the guides at The Dark Side of Seoul Ghost Walks, had nicer things to say about Gyeonghui Palace.

"I say specifically on my tour that the palace is my favorite. It's the underdog, the lesser-known one, and the one that tends to get the least amount of attention. I have sympathy for the underdog," he said. "Gyeonghuigung has been overlooked and ignored for years. Jongmyo has been included on the list of the 'Five Palaces' for ages, which is bizarre and historically misleading."

Morrissey, who visits the palace a few times a week while leading tours, said he's noticed an increase in people using the park surrounding it in recent months.

Shawn Morrissey visits Gyeonghui Palace in central Seoul during the Dark Side of Seoul Ghost Walk, Nov. 15, 2023. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Visitor statistics for the four other palaces (plus Jongmyo) are collected by the Korea Heritage Service (KHS), but it does not track the number of people coming to Gyeonghui Palace. An official at the KHS explained that this palace, unlike the others, is in the hands of the Seoul Metropolitan Government, which also runs the museum next door.

The official said this distinction in management is the reason why Gyeonghui Palace is not included in the K-Royal Culture Festival.

"Ideally, the Korea Heritage Service would manage Gyeonghui Palace as well, but due to the purchase by Seoul City and differing interests, this is not currently the case," the official said.

"Unlike the four other major palaces, Gyeonghui Palace possesses fewer archaeological features. The other four palaces still have many archaeological features to be unearthed. Although it is a royal palace, its cultural and historical value is considered diminished."

The KHS official also pointed to historical reasons for Gyeonghui Palace's diminished respect.

"Gyeonghui Palace was originally much larger than what remains today, with most of its surrounding land having been sold or granted to the public by the Japanese colonial government during the 1910-45 Japanese occupation," she said.

During the 1910-45 Japanese occupation, it was completely dismantled and replaced with a boys' school. The school was built on the same platform, with the same stone stairs, likely as a sign of disrespect to Joseon's legacy, according to some history experts, but that appears to be what saved it from disappearing completely.

After liberation, the school became Gyeongsong Middle School, later renamed Seoul High School, which vacated the location and moved to Gangnam in 1987. Reconstruction of the palace began in the 1990s when Seoul announced plans to rebuild the Five Grand Palaces. However, due to the lack of room in the surrounding area, only about a third of the palace has been reconstructed.

A school building stands on the site of Gyeonghui Palace, as seen in this historical photo on display at the palace in central Seoul, Oct. 25, 2015. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Nearby the palace stand Seoul Museum of History and Donuimun Museum Village. It has been widely reported that Donuimun Museum Village will be closed, and there has even been speculation that the history museum might be relocated.

Morrissey called the plans for the area "daft."

"The current plans for the grounds and the area are a bit daft, tearing down the museum village especially — though tearing down the village that was there initially was also daft," he said. "I think the government and the heritage committees might feel Gyeonghuigung's grounds are too different from the other four grounds, perhaps lackluster in comparison, so they haven't been active in promoting Gyeonghuigung. I think they are going ahead with this plan to spruce it up."

McPherson dismissed the plans as mere rumors.

"There's a rumor that they're going to give Gyeonghuigung an expansion and overhaul," he said. "I mean, there's at least one news article about it, but with Korean organizations' habit of announcing s--- that never happens, I'm calling it a rumor. Shawn and I are already preparing to alter our tours if this happens."

A city government official confirmed that specific facility plans have not yet been finalized and will be developed when the project is initiated next year. For the time being, the city is focusing on inspecting and maintenance work on convenience facilities around the palace, with plans to carry out repair work on the deteriorating pavement leading to Sungjeongmun, the inner gate of the palace, as well as areas that have been eroded due to the unevenness of the surrounding terrain.

"Seoul City recognizes that certain palaces are clearly designated as cultural heritage sites that require strict management, which is why the government invests funds to ensure their maintenance," the official said. "However, in the case of Gyeonghui Palace, it is not recognized as a cultural heritage site. This lack of clarity about what should be preserved has resulted in insufficient government investment and management. Consequently, proper care and promotion of the site have not been adequately addressed."

Korea Times intern Kim Hyo-jae contributed to the reporting of this article.