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INTERVIEW'Jang' has potential to become global favorite

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Choi Jung-yoon, head chef at Sempio's Culinary Research & Solution Center / Courtesy of Sempio

Choi Jung-yoon, head chef at Sempio's Culinary Research & Solution Center / Courtesy of Sempio

By Baek Byung-yeul

Korea's "jang," or traditional fermented sauces, lies at the heart and soul of its culinary tradition. On Tuesday (local time), it earned global recognition as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, celebrating not only its rich flavors but also the centuries-old stories and communal spirit behind its creation.

For Choi Jung-yoon, head chef of Korean food company Sempio's Culinary Research & Solution Center, this milestone represents more than just a cultural triumph. It marks a significant moment for Korea's food legacy and its increasing influence on the global gastronomic stage.

"This acknowledgment underscores the cultural value of jang and its importance in Korean cuisine," Choi said during a recent interview with The Korea Times at Sempio's headquarters in Seoul.

Choi, a chef and "hansik" (Korean food) researcher, has built her career not only in Korea but also in Spain and Australia. She has been the head chef at Sempio's research center since 2010, working on the Jang Project, and leads the Nanro Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to the study of Korean cuisine.

She stated that the international recognition of Korean jang, such as "doenjang" (soybean paste), "ganjang" (soy sauce) and "gochujang" (red chili paste), signifies the acknowledgment of the stories woven into the lives of Koreans, making it immensely valuable.

"For Koreans, jang is not just an ingredient — it's a story, a shared experience and a reflection of our culinary identity," Choi explained.

The act of fermenting jang carries countless stories of the people who have crafted it over generations. Courtesy of Korea Heritage Service

The act of fermenting jang carries countless stories of the people who have crafted it over generations. Courtesy of Korea Heritage Service

She emphasized that the recognition of jang-making by UNESCO is not just about the quality of the product but also the cultural process behind its creation.

"The act of fermenting these sauces carries countless stories of the people who have made it over generations. To have that value recognized globally is very moving," she said.

Choi noted that this recognition provides an opportunity to introduce jang to a wider audience.

"It's an honor that the world acknowledges jang as a cultural heritage. It allows us to share the narrative of Korean food and its deep connections to our history and identity," she added.

Beyond its cultural significance, Choi sees the UNESCO recognition as a transformative moment for the jang industry.

"The UNESCO recognition holds substantial industrial value. Jang is an indispensable ingredient in hansik. Although people abroad might source local ingredients, they'll likely still rely on sauces produced by Korean companies," the head chef said.

Jang, especially gochujang, is already gaining international recognition, and Choi believes this UNESCO acknowledgment will further boost its brand value, solidifying it as a cornerstone of the Korean food industry.

"Sales of gochujang have been steadily increasing, proving its potential in the global market," she said.

Choi Jung-yoon, head chef at Sempio's Culinary Research & Solution Center and director for Sempio's Jang Project, delivers a lecture on Korea's 'jang,' or fermented sauce, at the food company's headquarters in Seoul, Nov. 28. Courtesy of Sempio

Choi Jung-yoon, head chef at Sempio's Culinary Research & Solution Center and director for Sempio's Jang Project, delivers a lecture on Korea's "jang," or fermented sauce, at the food company's headquarters in Seoul, Nov. 28. Courtesy of Sempio

Heart of Korean cuisine

Choi said jang's essential role in Korean cooking cannot be overstated, saying that the Korean sauce continues to evolve while maintaining its authenticity, ranging from traditional dishes like "doenjang jjigae" (soybean paste stew) to contemporary fusion recipes.

"Jang is the foundation of Korean cuisine. It's the secret weapon that defines the taste of our food," she said. "What's remarkable is how adaptable jang is. We've found that jang pairs beautifully with global ingredients — cheese, pasta and even pizza. This versatility means it's not just for Korean food but can also enhance international cuisines."

Choi sees jang as more than a sauce, saying it's a living heritage that connects past, present and future generations.

"In my family, four generations share the same table — from my grandmother, who lived through the Korean War, to my sibling, who enjoys international cuisines like pasta and malatang. The one constant is jang — it's in the soybean paste stew my grandmother loves and the soy sauce glaze on my niece's favorite chicken," she said.

As Korea's rapid modernization reshapes its culinary landscape, jang remains a unifying thread. "Korean food evolves, yet jang stays at its core. It adapts, pivots and finds new roles in global dishes while retaining its essence," she said.

Korean food company Sempio's Fermentation Research Center in Osong, North Chungcheong Province / Courtesy of Sempio

Korean food company Sempio's Fermentation Research Center in Osong, North Chungcheong Province / Courtesy of Sempio

Global rise of Korean food

Choi attributes the growing popularity of Korean food to broader shifts in global dining trends. Fermented foods like jang and kimchi, which are rich in probiotics and flavors, resonate with these trends.

"Today's culinary landscape emphasizes health and diversity, which align perfectly with the strengths of Korean cuisine," she said.

The perception of Korean food has also shifted dramatically over the years.

"Decades ago, Korean dishes like kimchi and gimbap were misunderstood or even ridiculed overseas," she recalled. "But now, Korean cuisine is seen as being trendy and sophisticated."

Choi believes this change is tied to the increasing global interest in Korean culture.

"When people like a country, they begin to like its food. The global popularity of Korean media and culture has naturally led to a greater acceptance of our cuisine," she said.

Looking ahead, Choi envisions a future where jang becomes a staple in global kitchens.

"The key is to make jang accessible and familiar, not just a trendy ingredient but part of everyday life," she said. She cited the success of Korean restaurants in New York, including 11 Michelin-starred establishments, as evidence of Korean cuisine's growing influence.

For Sempio, this vision includes supporting traditional jang artisans and modernizing production. It includes analyzing the microbial composition of artisanal jang to ensure its quality and help preserve the tradition.

"We invest heavily in fermentation research, with over 160 researchers at our research center in Osong, North Chungcheong Province," Choi said. "Our goal is to create high-quality products that anyone can use in their daily cooking."

Baek Byung-yeul baekby@koreatimes.co.kr


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