An Ji-hyun, left, and her husband Mok Ji-su, co-founders of Smooth Lab, hold their "Jipap Bathhouse" magazine, which introduces Korea's public bathhouses, at Space Um in Busan in this 2024 photo. Courtesy of Smooth Lab

There was a time when weekly trips to "mogyoktang" (public bathhouse) were an integral part of Korean life. On weekend mornings, you could meet almost half of your neighborhood friends at the bathhouse and finding a spot quickly was a skill. However, as times and lifestyles have changed, public bathhouses have become less common in our daily lives, and the sight of bathhouse chimneys has become rare in urban areas.

However, not everyone is willing to let this tradition fade away. An Ji-hyun, who publishes Korea's only bathhouse magazine, "Jipap Bathhouse," along with her husband, is one of them. The name "Jipap" translates to "in front of the house" in Korean, symbolizing the bathhouse's role as a neighborhood gathering place.

An explained that the project began when her husband, a self-proclaimed "bathhouse enthusiast," visited his old neighborhood in Busan some 17 years ago. He was then disheartened to find that many of the bathhouses he remembered from his childhood had disappeared.

"With vivid memories of going to the bathhouse with his father, diving into the cold water and enjoying a small carton of milk afterward, he was determined to document these disappearing spaces," she told The Korea Times, explaining why the couple, who previously worked in advertising and marketing, left their jobs and moved to Busan in 2008 and launched a project to document the unique history and charm of these disappearing spaces.

They began by 3D scanning bathhouses to preserve their architecture. The couple soon produced documentaries to share their stories and ultimately launched Korea's first magazine dedicated to bathhouse culture in 2023.

Bathhouse chimneys are seen in Busan. As lifestyles have changed, public bathhouses have become less common in Koreans' daily lives. Courtesy of Smooth Lab

Being places where people of all social classes inevitably find themselves naked, public bathhouses have a similar cultural significance across different countries. However, a key difference, for instance, between Japan and Korea is its social role, according to An.

"Japanese people, who are very conscious of not causing inconvenience to others, prefer a quiet bathing experience. In contrast, Koreans often enjoy socializing with friends and family while bathing. We miss the days when catching up while soaking in hot water or getting a good scrub at public bathhouses was the heart of our communities. For a long time, they were places where we could meet everyone in the neighborhood," she said.

Koreans are now familiar with the concept of disrobing and stepping into a communal bathtub, but it hasn't been long since bathing customs have been around. Seoul's first modern public bathhouse, known to have opened in 1925, marked the beginning of a golden age for public bathing that lasted until the 1970s. The increasing popularity of apartments with private bathrooms began to change this trend.

Public bathhouses in Korea peaked in March 2004, with nearly 10,000 establishments operating nationwide, according to the Ministry of the Interior and Safety's 2023 survey. Since then, the number has been steadily declining, with the COVID-19 pandemic accelerating this trend. Over the past three years between 2020 and 2022, nearly 730 bathhouses nationwide have closed their doors.

Despite this decline, Busan, with its renowned hot springs like Dongnae and Haeundae hot springs, has always been a hub for public bathhouse culture in Korea. At its peak in 1996, Busan had nearly 1,500 bathhouses, but the number has significantly declined due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

"While there are about 700 registered bathhouses in Busan now, it's estimated that only around 500 are actually in operation. This is still more than Tokyo, which has around 400 operating bathhouses," she said, highlighting the city's unique position in Korean bathing culture.

Korean exfoliating gloves, known as the "Italy towel" / gettyimagesbank

Birthplace of 'Italy towel,' automatic back-scrubbing machine

During the '60s, Korean bathing culture saw a rise in popularity with the emergence of professional scrubbers, known as "sesinsa" in Korean, who offered full-body scrubs in public baths. This era also witnessed the introduction of the iconic "Italy towel," a green exfoliating cloth that can be seen at every Korean bathhouse.

An said Busan is credited with pioneering the invention of the Italy towel exfoliating gloves and the back scrubbing machine, revolutionizing Korean bathing culture. It's no exaggeration to say that public baths have become synonymous with the city of Busan.

"Actually, the Italy towel was first developed in Busan. There's a story that in 1967, a textile company called Hanil Textile imported a type of Italian fabric. Finding the fabric to be quite rough, they wondered what to do with it and came up with the idea of using it to scrub the skin," she said.

The automatic back scrubber was also created by a man named Son Jeong-gi from Busan in 1981. It was designed to help people who found it difficult to scrub their own backs. An Italy towel is attached to a circular plate, which rotates to scrub the user's back.

"At the time, technology was less advanced, so there were quite a few cases of electric shocks, I heard. That's why it was primarily distributed in Busan and nearby regions where after-sales service was more convenient. I heard that there were some in Seoul and other regions as well, but it seems that it didn't spread widely," she said. "However, in Busan, especially in men's public baths, you can still find them almost everywhere."

Visitors take a photo in front of a back-scrubbing machine during the "Molraetang" pop-up event at Bongraetang public bathhouse in Busan in this 2023 photo. Courtesy of Smooth Lab

Needs for changes

An says it is time to see public bathhouses evolve and adapt to modern times and become something new and exciting. The bathhouses featured in her magazine, which comes out 10 times a year — combining January and February as well as July and August into single issues — are carefully chosen after research and discussions.

"We look for three main things: clean water, a well-maintained place and a friendly owner. We even take the first bath of the day to check the water quality. Bathhouses that care about their water often mix salt or groundwater to make it feel smoother," she explained, adding that almost 80 percent of bathhouses fail to even meet these basic standards.

"Those places are going to go out of business soon. But those that do, for example, Noksutang, have people lining up for the first bath or are getting new customers every 10 minutes."

As lifestyles evolve, the gradual disappearance of public bathhouses may be inevitable, but An and her husband work hard to make sure these places do not vanish entirely.

"Just as traditional barbershops have evolved into hair salons, we hope that public bathhouses can evolve into new spaces with unique features," she said.

People participate in the "Molraetang" pop-up event at Bongraetang public bathhouse in Busan in this 2023 photo. Courtesy of Smooth Lab

A trip to Japan offered her insights on how to revive local public bathhouses and their culture.

"Japan is facing a similar situation of many public bathhouses closing down. However, due to the tradition of family businesses, many of these establishments are now run by the third generation, or the MZ Generation (millennials and Gen Zers) ... I witnessed firsthand how new communities were forming around century-old bathhouses," she said.

To ensure the survival of their family businesses, Japanese bathhouse owners are experimenting with various initiatives, such as operating bars after obtaining sommelier certifications, serving as community care centers and collaborating with local businesses to offer cultural programs.

"For instance, Kosugiyu, a family-run bathhouse for three generations in Tokyo, is so popular it's actually a cultural landmark in Japan. Thanks to social media, even young people who don't usually go to public bathhouses are loving it. It's cool to see how these bathhouses can bring young people together and make neighborhoods feel more alive. We want to create that same energy in Busan," she said.

The "Molraetang" pop-up event held at Bongraetang bathhouse in 2023 was the first attempt to bring this idea to life. The concept was to transform the bathhouse into a unique experience space on a regular day off and invite guests without the owner's knowledge.

The hot tub, emptied of steamy hot water, was transformed into a ball pit filled with colorful plastic balls, while the cold tub became a bowling alley where visitors could roll basketballs and soccer balls to knock down shampoo bottles. Laughter filled the bathhouse as visitors took selfies and fathers demonstrated the use of back-scrubbing machines to their children.

"With the changing times, the bonds between neighbors are visibly weakening. We wanted to revive the community by using the local bathhouse as a hub. This project aims to reposition the bathhouse not only as a place to wash but also as a 'healing' space where people can connect with each other and find comfort," An said.

For foreigners who want to experience authentic Korean bathhouse culture, she suggests that they try the full experience, complete with a scrub from a professional scrubber. An also noted that visitors should also try alternating soaks between hot and cold baths — perfect for muscle relaxation.

"After your bath, I recommend treating yourself to traditional Korean bathhouse drinks such as banana-flavored milk, 'sikhye' (sweet rice drink) or 'dabang' coffee (instant milk coffee). I hope you immerse yourself in the unique charm of a Korean bathhouse, which will refresh you, especially in the chilly winter weather. It's surprisingly addictive," she said.