Participants cook Korean cuisine during the Hansik Contest at the Korean Embassy in Croatia in Zagreb, June 5, 2024. Courtesy of Korean Food Promotion Institute

Korean cuisine and food culture, known as "hansik" in Korean, is gaining global popularity. This surge is driven by frequent exposure in TV series, movies and the online world of K-pop stars, as well as its reputation for being a healthy diet.

The trend is further highlighted by Korea hosting this year's Asia's 50 Best Restaurants (A50BR), an international gastronomic event, for the second straight year. The event will take place from Saturday to Wednesday across multiple locations in Seoul, featuring banquets, discussions, workshops, an awards ceremony and more. It is jointly organized by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs and the Seoul Metropolitan Government.

The number of hansik restaurants recognized by the Michelin Guide, a prestigious global standard for fine dining, is on the rise, showcasing both traditional and modern Korean cuisine. As of this month, 36 hansik restaurants worldwide have earned Michelin stars. Notably, Atomix in New York was ranked sixth in the world and first in the United States by the World's 50 Best Restaurants last year.

"Korean jang (fermented soybean sauce or paste) was added to UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity last December, while exports of Korean foods and related products surpassed $13 billion last year alone. The global recognition of Korean cuisine has been rapidly rising," said an official from the Korean Food Promotion Institute, a state-run organization promoting hansik.

"Along with traditional and healthy options like fermented foods and low-fat, high-protein dishes such as bulgogi (pan-fried beef slices) and bibimbap (steamed rice with vegetables), new recipes are introducing experimental Korean dishes, adapting hansik to local tastes in different countries and modern dining trends."

Korean dishes are displayed during the Hansik Contest at the Korean Cultural Centre Australia in Sydney, Sept. 6, 2024. Courtesy of Korean Food Promotion Institute

Hansik has firmly established itself in culinary scenes across the world, from fine dining establishments to casual eateries. This trend is particularly evident in Paris, where the rising global popularity of K-pop and Korean drama series has fueled interest in Korean cuisine.

Hansik restaurants and Korean bakeries in the sixth, 14th and 15th arrondissements cater to local patrons with jjigae (stew), street food and Korean-inspired bread. The city now has five K-Mart stores across different districts, while two Korean fine dining restaurants are located in Le Marais and Champs-Elysees, one of which specializes in Korean barbecue.

Picard Surgeles, a frozen food product manufacturer in France, has begun making its own Korean dishes, including dumplings, japchae (glass noodles with vegetables) and jjigae. This Korean food boom has surged alongside the global success of BTS, BLACKPINK and Squid Game.

Sato Hideaki, chef of the three-star Michelin restaurant Ta Vie in Hong Kong, has observed a similar trend.

"Korean cuisine has been very popular for some time, from casual spots to fine dining. You see many Korean restaurants and takeout shops on the streets. Especially in the past five years, I'd say Korean cuisine has truly become a trend," he said.

Keeping up momentum

Experts, however, express concerns that hansik could become a fleeting trend and eventually fade into history. They argue that to ensure its longevity on the global stage, systematic efforts are needed — efforts that should involve not only Koreans but also international talent.

Edward Lee cooks during an episode of "Culinary Class Wars" on Netflix, which aired last year. The Korean cooking competition show featured chefs creating innovative dishes using popular ingredients for Korean food. The show became the most-watched foreign-language series on Netflix during its first week of streaming in September. Courtesy of Netflix

Yang Jong-jip, an assistant professor at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in New York, said hansik has reached an unprecedented level of popularity among students, professors and school employees in terms of its culture, history and philosophical value. The hansik chef added that there is now a growing movement to introduce hansik as an official part of the school's curriculum.

"The first critical step for hansik to be globally recognized is teaching people about hansik," Yang said. He is currently leading a movement within the school to launch the Comprehensive High-Standard Curriculum of Korean Culture and Cuisine.

"It will allow hansik to start taking root among CIA's students and educators, not just through cooking techniques but also by exploring the cultural and traditional backgrounds behind it. If the new curriculum succeeds, it will help spread hansik worldwide as our graduates return to their home countries. For the more effective globalization of hansik, cooperation from Korean private companies, the government and scholars is essential. This will elevate hansik into a cultural heritage, rather than just a passing trend."

Kang Min-goo, the owner-chef of Mingles, the only three-star Michelin restaurant in Korea, echoed Yang's sentiments about the necessity of spreading hansik worldwide through people in different countries. He shared that he has encountered many foreign nationals who were surprised to discover the deep-rooted culture of hansik beyond just street food.

Hansik chefs showcase traditional Korean cooking techniques using fermented ingredients during a workshop held alongside Asia's 50 Best Restaurants event in Seoul in this April 2024 photo. Courtesy of Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs

"Countries with advanced culinary cultures like France, Italy and Japan have impressed many foreign visitors, encouraging them to learn about the food and share it with people in their own countries. Gastronomy has been a powerful diplomatic messenger. I hope the same works out with hansik as well," Kang said.

"Hansik can diversify in many parts of the world. By using local ingredients, it can target local markets. However, hansik's true color must not be lost in the process. That is when hansik's globalization will truly take off."

The global expansion of Korean cuisine has been underway for some time and has already captured significant market share in several countries.

CJ CheilJedang, the manufacturer of the globally popular food brand Bibigo, achieved significant milestones outside of Korea last year. In the U.S., Bibigo led the dumpling market with a 41 percent market share, surpassing the second most popular brand, which held just 12.1 percent. Bibigo's market share has steadily grown since 2019, when it was below 8 percent.

Bibigo's success outside of Korea extends beyond dumplings. Kimchi saw the highest sales growth, increasing by 38 percent compared to the previous year. Steamed rice, noodles and sauces also contributed to the brand's overseas sales, each experiencing growth of over 10 to 20 percent.

The company's sales across Europe surpassed 100 billion won ($69 million) last year for the first time. In Australia, Bibigo expanded its presence by entering Woolworths, Coles and IGA, three of the four largest retail chain stores in the country.