The entrance to Beomeo Temple in Busan, April 3, 2015 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
Not only are Korean Buddhist temples filled with beautiful buildings and Buddhist artistry, they are also filled with rich religious histories, legends and myths. A wonderful example of this specific sort of legacy can be found at Beomeo Temple on the northeastern foothills of Busan's Mount Geumjeong (801.5 meters).
Beomeo Temple was first established in 678 by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702). In English, Beomeo means “Nirvana Fish.” The name of the temple relates to the mountain on which Beomeo Temple is situated, as Geumjeong means “Golden Well” in English. This comes from a myth that a golden fish descended from the heavens on a five-colored cloud and played in a well atop Mount Geumjeong. It's believed that this golden well never dries up.
Artwork illustrates the myth of Mount Geumjeong at Gukcheong Temple in Busan, Aug. 1, 2012 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
As for a legend about Beomeo Temple, for which there are several, there once lived a great monk named Nangbaek during the 1392-1910 Joseon Dynasty. During this time, Korean Buddhism started to decline as a result of Joseon's anti-Buddhist policies. In those days, temples were often burdened with numerous governmental tasks. Specifically, Beomeo Temple was burdened with 36 of these tasks, which left very little time for the monks to study.
Nangbaek was saddened by this situation, so he decided to avoid these tasks, even if it meant sacrificing his own life. He made the vow, “In my next life, I will become a high-ranking official in the country. With this privileged position, I will reform the duties imposed on monks at Beomeo Temple.”
From that day on, he worked hard to perform good deeds to accumulate good karma. Eventually, Nangbaek would die of hunger in the hills behind Beomeo Temple.
The monks' quarters at Beomeo Temple in Busan, April 25, 2020. Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
Decades after Nangbaek's death, a central minister named Sun Sang-guk arrived with a letter announcing his visit to the Beomeo Temple monks. Just as they had waited for local officials before, all the monks, led by the temple's abbot, went out to Eosan Bridge to greet the official. However, this official broke tradition by dismounting at Eosan Bridge. While carefully inspecting Beomeo Temple, this official came to a room that Nangbaek had sealed decades ago before his death. This official commanded that the room be opened. Inside, they found a handwritten note from Nangbaek inside. In this letter, Nangbaek wrote, “The one who opens the door is the one who closed it.”
Upon receiving the abbot's hospitality, the official promised to resolve the problems and difficulties that Beomeo Temple was suffering. These, of course, included the 36 duties. Immediately, the official instructed Dongnae to carry out these reforms. While Sun never admitted to being the reincarnation of Nangbaek, he would fulfill the monk's temple reforms.
A view from Dokseong-gak Hall at Beomeo Temple in Busan, March 19, 2023 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
The modern history of Beomeo Temple is particularly intriguing. During the devastating 1910-45 Japanese colonial rule, an itinerant Japanese monk named Soma Shoei (1904-71) lived and practiced at the temple.
Soma arrived at Beomeo Temple in late April 1929 in the middle of a three-month retreat for Korean monks. What's interesting about this time, and in particular both Beomeo Temple and Soma, is that there was an ongoing effort to preserve the Seon (Zen) tradition in Korea from negative Japanese Buddhist influences. Some 35 monks established the “Society for Supporting Seon Fellows” in 1922. And rather interestingly, Beomeo Temple was a major force in the establishment of this society. Given the temple's significant role in preserving the Seon tradition, it is intriguing why Soma was sent here to practice within this particular setting.
Naewon Hermitage at Beomeo Temple, July 22, 2011 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
Soma's first impression when he arrived at Naewon Hermitage (located on the Beomeo Temple grounds) was that “as compared to busy temples in Japan, this temple is truly a blessed place for Zen [Seon] practice.” Rather interestingly, Soma and the Korean monks communicated by writing in Chinese characters, known as “hanja” in Korean. This was a classically written language that both sides could at least read, and since Soma didn't know Korean, and the translator had already left the hermitage, this is how the two sides would communicate.
Over time, Soma would adjust to the changes found at the Korean temple. He would wake up at 3 a.m., eat spicy food, deal with the humid weather and more. In addition to coping and being included, Soma was also assigned by the temple to help pick mountain vegetables.
As for the spicier food that the Korean monks ate, Soma would have the most difficulty with this part of living at a Korean temple. One day while eating the communal meal together, Soma was determined to eat the spiciest dish. With eyes closed, his mouth “flamed out like a volcano” and his eyes “brimmed with tears.” Seeing this, a senior Korean monk at the temple recommended that Soma might prefer that the temple provide less spicy food for him. Soma respectfully declined and continued attempting to eat the spicy food that the temple provided. Eventually, he would adapt.
Lanterns are displayed for Buddha's Birthday at Beomeo Temple in Busan, April 25, 2020. Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
At another time, and nearing the end of a three-month-long retreat at Beomeo Temple, there was a ceremony in which five monks at the temple received acute food poisoning. No one knew what to do. Soma retrieved medicine from his belongings that he had brought with him just in case he himself fell ill, which he offered to the sick monks. Eventually, the monks felt better. They were appreciative and Soma was relieved because he wasn't quite sure what effect the medicine would have.
After the three-month long retreat was completed, and while other itinerant monks would leave for destinations and temples unknown, Soma would stay at Beomeo Temple for three more years. Despite the political tension between the two nations, both Soma and the Korean monks were able to live in both peace and harmony.
Inside the Daeung-jeon Hall at Beomeo Temple in Busan, March 19, 2023 / Courtesy of Dale Quarrington
Once you peel back the first couple of superficial layers, a whole world of meaning reveals itself, whether that's through the symbolic meaning found in temple architecture or artwork, or whether it's through a temple's myths, legends and history. And Beomeo Temple in Busan is a wonderful example of the profound meaning locked deep inside the most hallowed of Buddhist temples in Korea.
Dale Quarrington has visited over 500 temples throughout the Korean Peninsula and published four books on Korean Buddhism. He runs the website Dale's Korean Temple Adventures.