Fortune-telling shops in Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam, Seoul, on Aug. 22. The traditional white and red flags symbolizing shamanic houses were absent, and several shamanic businesses were located within the same building. Korea Times photo by Han Chae-yeon

Fortune-telling, deeply rooted in Korean culture, continues to thrive in modern Seoul, with wealthy neighborhoods like Gangnam District's Nonhyeon-dong emerging as major hubs where spiritual consultations flourish in areas of high foot traffic and affluence.

According to data extracted from Naver as of Aug. 1, there are currently 15,853 registered fortune-telling businesses offering services such as shamanic readings, horoscopes and tarot across Korea.

Nonhyeon Station stood out as the most densely packed area in Seoul, with 285 fortune-telling shops located within a 2.45-kilometer radius. This area surpassed other notable hot spots like Eunpyeong District's Yeokchon Station, which has 214 shops, and the Sindang and Dongmyo areas, which together house 193 fortune-telling shops.

Mia Station, with its long history of shamanic traditions, came in fourth with 182 shops, followed by the youth-oriented Hongdae area with 148.

Despite the growing popularity of online fortune-telling services, especially among younger generations through platforms like YouTube, traditional fortune-telling shops remain vital in certain neighborhoods, driven by a mix of historical, cultural and economic factors.

A shamanic house located behind Miadong in Gangbuk District, Seoul, Aug. 21. Korea Times photo by Lee Sung-won

Prosperity of fortune-telling industry

Nonhyeon area's fortune-telling shops stand out not only because of their number but also because of the wealth of their clientele.

The neighborhood has become a go-to destination for high-profile clients, including politicians, entertainers and business figures. Many of them seek advice on matters ranging from careers and wealth to relationships.

This clientele tends to prefer discreet, high-end services, which has led to a number of shops not displaying the traditional red or white flags — symbols indicating whether the shaman offers divination or rituals.

Instead, these shops operate quietly, with many only accepting clients by appointment.

A 60-year-old shaman from Nonhyeon said, "In the north of the Han River, shamanic markets are scattered across multiple areas, but in the south, Nonhyeon is the only real concentration of fortune-telling shops. I only take clients by appointment, and if someone comes without one, I send them away."

When asked about her income, she said, "I make around 150 million won ($113,000) a year. When I'm not consulting clients, I spend my time in prayer."

Another shaman in the area boasted about her financial success, saying, "I see around 100 clients every ten days. During boom times, my appointments were booked two months in advance. Now, it's about a month's wait. All of my clients come through word-of-mouth."

She said that her business operates entirely on reputation and noted, "My signboard was even made for free by one of my loyal clients who works in advertising." When asked how much she charges, she confidently quoted 100,000 won ($75) per session. With such a rate, her yearly earnings amount to several hundred million won. "I don't envy doctors or lawyers," she added.

Fortune-telling shops in Mia-ri, Donam-dong, Seongbuk District, Seoul / Korea Times photo by Lee Sung-won

High-profile clients seek discreet consultations

The clientele of Nonhyeon's fortune-tellers is unique in that it includes some of Korea's elite. According to one shaman, "Our clients include everyone from high-ranking politicians to famous entertainers. Many of them are here for career advice, but some just want someone to talk to."

She added that many younger women working in the entertainment or nightlife industries also frequent the area.

"Life in Gangnam can be very stressful, and people come here looking for comfort and guidance," she said.

Another fortune-teller in the area said, "The clients we get here in Gangnam have no issues with money. They also tend to have favorable fortunes. Unlike clients in other districts, they don't haggle over the price. I charge 200,000 won for a couple's reading, and they pay without question."

Shamanic houses near Eungam-dong, Eunpyeong District, Seoul, Aug. 26 / Korea Times photo by Han Chae-yeon

Challenges amid rising property prices

However, the fortune-telling industry in Nonhyeon is not without its challenges. Rising real estate prices in Gangnam have made it difficult for many shamans to maintain their businesses in the area.

A local real estate agent said, "There are two shamans looking to rent spaces here, but they can't find anything. Property owners don't want fortune-telling businesses because they think it affects the building's appearance."

This sentiment was echoed by another agent who said that some shamans are being forced out of their rented properties as old buildings are torn down and replaced with newer developments. "When a building is renovated or rebuilt, the shamans are often the first to be evicted," she said.

In some cases, fortune-tellers are willing to pay up to 20 percent more than the standard rent just to secure a space.

"If the rent is 1.5 million won, they might offer 1.7 million won just to secure a lease," one real estate agent said, highlighting the desperation of some fortune-tellers to remain in the lucrative Gangnam area.

The village of fortune-telling shops in Mia-ri in Seoul during its peak in the 2000s, with cars parked in front of fortune-telling shops as customers wait for readings. Korea Times file

Decline of Mia-dong's shamanic village

While Nonhyeon thrives, other traditional shamanic hubs like Mia-dong are experiencing a downturn. Mia-dong, historically known for its concentration of shamanic houses, has seen a steep decline in business, driven by redevelopment projects and the aging population of practitioners.

Baek Hyun-ok, a 75-year-old shaman with 45 years of experience, said, "Back in the 2000s, this area was booming, but now, there are barely any clients." She added, "The media often portrays shamanism as superstition and stories about shamans committing crimes have damaged the industry's reputation. It's the sincere practitioners like me who suffer."

The changes in Mia-dong reflect broader societal shifts. The district symbolized a place of sorrow where many poor residents settled after the 1950-1953 Korean War.

Shamanic traditions flourished in this environment as people sought spiritual solace. But as the area redeveloped, many of the long-standing shamanic houses disappeared.

According to the Korean Kyungsin Federation, or Gyeongcheon Shinmyeonghoe in Korean, a group representing shamanic practitioners, the number of shamans in Mia-dong has dwindled to just a tenth of what it once was.

Spiritual pull of Eunpyeong

In contrast, Eunpyeong remains a spiritual stronghold for fortune-tellers, thanks to its proximity to "sacred" mountains like Bukhan, Bugak and Baekryeon, which are considered to enhance "spiritual energy."

A 31-year-old shaman from the area, who received her calling at the age of 23, said, "When I was looking for a place to set up my practice, I wanted somewhere with good spiritual energy and close to the mountains. Eunpyeong was perfect. This area has a long history of shamanism, and even the older landlords are open to renting their properties for shamanic practices."

Eunpyeong also benefits from its proximity to traditional markets. One shaman near Yeonsinnae Station said, "Shamans spend a lot on ritual items like rice cakes, vegetables and fruit. We buy these in large quantities, sometimes 60,000 to 100,000 won worth of goods at a time, so you could say that we keep the local markets going."

Fortune-telling shops frequented by millennials and Gen Zers in Seogyo-dong, near Hongik University, Mapo District, Seoul, Aug. 23 / Korea Times photo by Han Chae-yeon

Changing industry with new generations

As the fortune-telling industry evolves, younger shamans are finding new ways to adapt to the modern world. In areas like Hongdae, which millennials and Gen Zers frequently visit, fortune-telling cafes have sprung up, offering tarot and horoscope readings.

Some of these are even run by shamans who have received spiritual callings. These cafes lower the barriers to entry, with some shops allowing customers to choose their preferred reading through kiosks.

A 30-year-old shaman who has been practicing for two years said, "A lot of students come here to get their compatibility checked with their partners through tarot or horoscopes. I offer a mix of spiritual readings and tarot. Even shamans have to adapt to the changing times."

Her prices reflect this modern approach, charging 20,000 won for a simple reading and 50,000 won for an in-depth consultation, making her services affordable for younger clients.

Despite the modernization of some practices, the cultural significance of fortune-telling in Korea remains as strong as ever.

Yeom Eun-young, a cultural researcher, said, "In today's uncertain society, fortune-telling offers psychological comfort and a way to resolve personal concerns. We need to look at fortune-telling not just as a personal issue but as a broader social phenomenon."

This article from the Hankook Ilbo, the sister publication of The Korea Times, is translated by a generative AI system and edited by The Korea Times.