A district office worker stands at the entrance to the October 29 Memorial Alley in central Seoul's Itaewon, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
Oct. 31 hasn't actually come yet, but Halloween weekend has already passed. It has been a morbid few days in Itaewon, where two years ago a deadly crowd disaster in a narrow, steep alley took 159 lives.
The Saturday before Halloween passed without major incidents in central Seoul's multicultural neighborhood. Police and district office safety officials maintained high visibility throughout the night, and while it appeared that crowds were bigger than last year, it was still not much.
As of midnight, a sign reporting crowd size was seen displaying a yellow alert with the message "Crowded Pedestrian Caution."
A Yongsan District worker directs foot traffic under a sign announcing a yellow alert for crowd size in central Seoul's Itaewon, early Oct. 27. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
"We did what we would expect to do on a good Saturday, but it wasn't an exceptional night," Simon Walsh, owner of Itaewon Pub, said regarding the number of customers. He added that he hopes crowds will return to pre-pandemic levels next year.
Of the people who were around, a low proportion wore Halloween costumes.
"I feel embarrassed because nobody else dressed up," said Kylee, an American working at Skunk on the Sunset. "I'm disappointed because more people didn't wear costumes."
"It's disappointing,” echoed a costumed customer who arrived a few seconds later. “I hope it's better next year, because Halloween used to be so fun here."
A man in a dinosaur costume attends a festival organized by @itaewonpumpkin at Noksapyeong Plaza, near Itaewon, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
Earlier in the day, around 600 people gathered for an interfaith rally representing Protestantism, Catholicism, Won Buddhism and Buddhism. They laid flowers in the alley and gathered on the main street. Around 2:50 p.m. the crowd marched west toward the presidential office, later ending up downtown at Seoul Plaza in front of City Hall.
People gather in Itaewon-ro for a rally before marching toward the presidential office, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
Despite the occasion, the display boards installed along the October 29 Memorial Alley had been covered up. Signs indicated that the memorials were undergoing maintenance, and would be unveiled on Oct. 28 at 11 a.m. However, some people who spoke with The Korea Times expressed disappointment with the unprepared state of the memorial installations on the weekend ahead of Halloween.
Items are left behind for victims of the 2022 Itaewon Halloween crowd crush at a makeshift memorial in central Seoul's Itaewon, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
Meanwhile, religious zealots were also active that evening.
A van drove down the main street, blaring a harshly spoken message in English, “Turn back, repent, believe in the Lord Jesus Christ.”
In front of the Hamilton Hotel, a small group of Christians sang religious songs in front of a sign that warned, “Homosexuality is sin! You can be saved if you believe in Jesus.” They also handed out religious pamphlets with warnings that nonbelievers would go to Hell, a message that drew objections from many nearby members of the community who found it insensitive.
Christians proselytize on a street corner in front of the Hamilton Hotel in central Seoul's Itaewon, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
One business owner shared images of a flyer from Yongsan District Office, asking local establishments to refrain from street displays that could clutter the alleys and impede foot traffic. There was also a distinct lack of Halloween decorations on display, although pumpkin-themed designs could be seen here and there on the exteriors of some businesses.
One exception was Lit Lounge, which at the last minute put up a display of Halloween decorations out front in a safe location that did not block foot traffic. It hosted a costume party timed for its two-year anniversary.
"The night was filled with camera flashes, smiles and sounds of celebration all night," said Pinnacle The Hustler, owner of Lit Lounge. "I'm grateful that Yongsan District Office put the safety of Itaewon party-goers first, so that our people could safely enjoy the night."
A business owner decks out his storefront with Halloween decorations in central Seoul's Itaewon, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
Conspicuously absent were street food vendors. Instead, buskers could be seen here and there along Itaewon-ro.
Over at Noksapyeong Plaza, a group of Koreans gathered for a festival marking the second anniversary of the disaster, encouraging people to resume celebrating Halloween.
A man in a pumpkin mask talks about Halloween in Itaewon during a festival organized by @itaewonpumpkin at Noksapyeong Plaza in central Seoul, Saturday. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar
“After the Itaewon disaster on Oct. 29, 2022, criticism poured in on those who enjoyed Halloween that day,” the organizers said on a Tumblebug page. “Countless people blamed the victims, saying, ‘They went out to play and died,' and such insults spread based on the long-standing prejudices surrounding Itaewon. To some, Itaewon is already too dangerous, dirty and strange. The reason for accusatory questions like ‘Why did you go there?' is the same. The more Itaewon is perceived as unsettling, the more easily the disaster is interpreted as being trapped in that unsettlingness. That is why most of the people who visited Itaewon that day remain silent, and the residents who continue their lives in the same place are also hesitant to speak up.”
The group, who organized online at the Instagram page @itaewonpumpkin, launched a series of events, including street busking and speeches on Saturday. One costumed woman spoke of her experiences surviving the disaster, as well as the pressures she has faced in the aftermath.
“There are people who live after the disaster in their own way,” the organization said in an online statement. “They ask questions through their different practices. ‘Is it inevitable that daily life and remembrance be separated?' ‘Does the form have to be heavy and solemn?' ‘Can't we remember while having fun?' ‘Who are considered the people involved?' ‘How can the disaster be represented as an image?'”
They said that, under the current atmosphere surrounding the tragedy of two years ago, the country is still in the midst of a disaster. “A society that cannot mourn or does not know how to mourn after experiencing such a huge event is a miserable reality in itself,” they said. “The loss after the disaster goes beyond the sum total of the victims. In particular, the criticism of Itaewon and the stagnation of the local community are felt differently by each person. There are simply not enough places to talk about the disaster. This disaster happened to everyone.”