Baek Jung-ja, a Korea grand master in the traditional Korean food sector for her "jeupjang" (a kind of doenjang or soybean paste), speaks with The Korea Times at the Korea Food Grand Master Center in Seoul, Nov. 15. Korea Times photo by Baek Byung-yeul

For centuries, Korea's jang-making culture — symbolized by essential condiments such as "doenjang" (soybean paste), "ganjang" (soy sauce) and "gochujang" (red chili paste) — has been a cornerstone of its cuisine. Each jang tells a unique story as its flavor shaped by regional ingredients, fermentation methods and age-old practices passed down through generations.

At the forefront of this tradition is Baek Jung-ja, who has dedicated nearly 70 years to "jeupjang," a unique, fast-fermenting variant of doenjang. Fermented for a shorter period compared to standard doenjang, jeupjang's form and flavor vary depending on ingredients, fermentation and aging conditions specific to each region and household.

Due to the diverse ingredients and methods employed in its production, jeupjang had lacked a standardized recipe and remained a regional or family-specific dish in many areas. Recognizing the need for consistency, Baek developed a standardized recipe for jeupjang, balancing the diverse practices found across different regions. Recognized for her contribution, Baek was honored as the 65th Korea Grand Master of traditional Korean food by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs in 2015.

Baek Jung-ja, a Korea grand master in traditional Korean food sector for her "jeupjang" (kind of doenjang or soybean paste), poses with jeupjang she made during her lecture at the state-run Korea Food Grand Master Center in Seoul, Nov. 15. Courtesy of Korea Food Grand Master Center

The 86-year-old grand master, with pride in her lifelong work making various types of jang, including jeupjang, doenjang and ganjang, expressed gratitude for Koreans for their enduring commitment to preserving this traditional jang-making culture and jang in its authentic form.

"Jang is indispensable to Koreans. While Japan and China also make soy sauce and other soybean-based sauces, Koreans prefer jang made in the Korean way. I'm grateful that many Koreans continue to love and use these traditional sauces," Baek said during an interview with The Korea Times on Nov. 15.

Baek makes various types of jang, including jeupjang, in Gangjin County, South Jeolla Province, located 350 kilometers south of Seoul.

The Korea Times spoke with the grand master before her lecture at the state-run Korea Food Grand Master Center in central Seoul's Jongno District, where she teaches participants who want to experience her jang-making techniques about once a year.

"Jeupjang has been consumed by Koreans since ancient times. It was so common that during the Imjin War (1592-98 Japanese invasions of Korea), people would put it on rice balls (for simple meals) while fleeing from war," she said.

"In the past, when refrigeration technology was not that developed, people would make small amounts of jeupjang and keep it for only three days. Now, with improved refrigeration, jeupjang can be stored in the refrigerator for up to three months."

Baek Jung-ja, a Korea grand master in traditional Korean food sector, mixes "meju" (fermented soybean bricks) powder with grain to make jeupjang, a kind of doenjang or soybean paste, during her lecture at the Korea Food Grand Master Center in Seoul, Nov. 15. Courtesy of Korea Food Grand Master Center

Jeupjang has a thinner, more liquid consistency than the commonly known doenjang. It is made by fermenting powder of "meju" (fermented soybean bricks) with salt, vegetables and grains.

Traditionally this type of jang was made in households throughout the Jeolla and Gyeongsang regions in the southern areas of the Korean Peninsula, where it played a key role in the local culinary heritage.

Baek, the 33rd daughter-in-law of the Haeju Choi clan in Gangjin, said she learned to make the sauce from her mother-in-law after marrying following her elementary school graduation, shortly after the 1950-53 Korean War.

"My family and I are currently in the process of making meju from soybeans. I used to think only about earning income from making meju from the soybeans I grew, but now I'm incredibly grateful that the country has designated me as a grand master and that the jeupjang I've made all my life has become widely known," Baek said.

Baek Jung-ja, second from right, teaches how to make jeupjang during her lecture at the Korea Food Grand Master Center in Seoul, Nov. 15. Courtesy of Korea Food Grand Master Center

Recognized by UNESCO

She takes pride in the honest process of making jang, noting the importance of sourcing local and high-quality ingredients. In particular, the soybeans, the main ingredient of jang, are cultivated by her family.

"There's no deception in Korean jang. It has pure characteristics because it's made through natural fermentation. I'm truly grateful that we now live in a world where improved refrigeration technology allows us to store and consume jang for longer periods," Baek said.

In recognition of this unique Korean sauce-making culture, UNESCO inscribed the "knowledge, beliefs, and practices related to jang-making in South Korea" on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list, Tuesday (local time), in Asuncion, Paraguay.

Seen is jeupjang, a kind of thinner doenjang fermented with vegetables and grains, served with rice. Courtesy of Korea Food Grand Master Center

Baek, who established the standard recipe for jeupjang, revealed that she is passing on this technique to her son with a sense of mission to ensure her skills are transmitted to the next generation.

"I heard that UNESCO will soon inscribe jang-making culture on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list. It's extremely gratifying that this culture is being recognized internationally," she said.

"In the past, when poor households held events like weddings, the host family was the most grateful to those who brought jang. Many households couldn't afford to make large quantities of jang and those who gifted it received the highest treatment, showing how essential jang was to everyone. I will continue to strive to properly maintain this tradition."