"Bungeoppang," a fish-shaped pastry traditionally filled with sweet red bean paste, is a beloved wintertime street food in Korea. Courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization
In the biting cold of a Korean winter, warmth comes not just from scarves and gloves but from the tantalizing aroma of street food wafting through the air. From fish-shaped pastries to steaming skewered fish cakes, these treats are a comforting reminder of the season's simple joys, best enjoyed against the frosty wind outside.
As you wander through Seoul's frosty streets, let the steam and sweet and savory scents guide you — you might just discover your new favorite winter snack.
Here are five Korean winter delights that will warm your heart with every bite.
People hold "bungeoppang," a fish-shaped street food, at the Chonggakne Bungeoppang in Jongno District, Seoul. Captured from @148_mini on Instagram
'Bungeoppang': Fish-shaped pastry filled with red bean paste
"Bungeoppang," a fish-shaped pastry traditionally filled with sweet red bean paste, is a beloved wintertime street food in Korea. Building on its tradition, bungeoppang today delights with a variety of fillings ranging from custard cream and sweet potato to kimchi and pizza filling, adding a modern twist.
The 2011 book "Bungeoppang Has a Family Tree" traces the origin of bungeoppang, which literally means "fish bread" in Korean, to a fusion of Eastern and Western culinary traditions. Initially inspired by Western waffles, the Japanese adapted this concept into the "taiyaki," a fish-shaped pastry filled with red bean paste, in the 18th century.
This evolution continued as the sea bream-shaped taiyaki transformed into the carp-shaped bungeoppang in Korea. During the 1910-45 Japanese occupation, taiyaki was introduced to Korea and eventually evolved into bungeoppang, distinctively filled with red bean paste right to the tail's end. The availability of wheat flour after the 1950-53 Korean War further popularized bungeoppang as a beloved comfort food.
Bungeoppang served as a cheap and convenient street food for the working class during the rapid industrialization of Korea in the '60s and '70s. The popularity of bungeoppang waned as living standards improved, but it experienced a resurgence during the economic downturn of the late '90s.
For many years, bungeoppang was traditionally sold at "three for 2,000 won ($1.4)." However, now, some street vendors, particularly in downtown Seoul, charge 1,000 won apiece.
The continuously rising costs of ingredients and labor have not only increased prices but have also led to a decline in the number of bungeoppang vendors on the street. This phenomenon introduced the term "bungsegwon" (bungeoppang zone), and Korean map service providers and the online secondhand marketplace Karrot have launched a bungeoppang map, offering up-to-date information on where this street food favorite can still be found.
"Ingeoppang," or carp bread in Korean, a variation of bungeoppang with chewier texture with added glutinous rice flour, is seen at Namyeongyeok Ingeoppang in Yongsan District, Seoul. Captured from @bbang.__.dduck on Instagram
Chonggakne Bungeoppang is a must-visit for anyone looking for the best bungeoppang in Gwangjang Market, downtown Seoul.
Located at Gwangjang Market South Gate 1, near Jongno-5-ga Station on Seoul Metro Line 1, this stall is known for its long lines. Its signature red bean bungeoppang, filled with walnuts, offers a unique crunchy flavor. Other popular options include savory pizza bungeoppang and the sweet combination of sweet potato and cream cheese.
Despite the wait, customers rave about the taste and say the wait is worth every minute. However, limited hours from noon to 5 p.m., except on Mondays and Fridays, make it difficult to access for many. Red bean and custard cream-filled ones are priced at 1,500 won, while others cost 2,000 won.
Namyeongyeok Ingeoppang, located near Exit 1 of Namyeong Station on Seoul Metro Line 1, is a local favorite known for its generous red bean filling. Its "ingeoppang," a variation of bungeoppang with chewier texture due to the addition of glutinous rice flour, is almost all filling and has very little crust, hence the saying that the crust is just for show.
Each ingeoppang is carefully cooked over a gas flame to maintain its traditional taste. The crust is even trimmed by hand, adding to the preparation time. The result is a crispy exterior and a sweet yet subtly flavored red bean filling that's simply irresistible. It's no wonder people are willing to wait in line.
Due to high demand, purchases are limited to six per person. Offering three for 2,000 won, the stall operates from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., except Sundays, but it's best to arrive early as they often sell out. (Park Jin-hai)
CHILDISH has combined two popular baked goods — salted butter rolls and "bungeoppang" — into one signature treat. Captured from @chd.bakery on Instagram
Bungeoppang's trendy makeover
For decades, fish-shaped sweet bread bungeoppang has been an iconic snack in wintertime Korea.
Traditionally filled with sweet red bean paste, the snack has been a staple of street vendors, cherished for its affordability and nostalgic charm.
In recent years, however, rising ingredient costs have led to a noticeable decline in bungeoppang vendors along streets and alleyways. Instead, this humble pastry is gradually finding new life indoors on trendy cafe menus, reimagined with creative fillings and fashionable twists.
CHILDISH, located in the hip neighborhood of Seongsu-dong, eastern Seoul, has combined two popular baked goods — "sogeumppang" (salted butter rolls) and bungeoppang — into one signature treat.
Their carp-shaped pastry, stuffed with red bean paste and sprinkled with coarse salt, comes topped with a pat of gourmet butter. The result is a balance of sweetness and saltiness that has become the talk of the town among foodies.
At 4,500 won apiece, it's certainly on the pricey side, but that hasn't stopped customers from lining up. The cafe is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., except for Mondays, but it's best to arrive early as the treat often sells out well before closing time.
Bboongeo Dang offers Bboong Ice Cream — with a "bungeoppang" doubling as a cone for soft-serve ice cream, complete with an array of toppings. Captured from @bboong_eo_dang on Instagram
Bboongeo Dang, tucked away in Seoul's Seongbuk District near Sungshin Women's University, offers a playful take on bungeoppang.
Here, the fillings go beyond the traditional red bean paste or the ever-popular vanilla custard. Flavors include pizza, sweet potato, mozzarella, cream cheese, Korean corn cheese and even “Buldak” (hot chicken). There are also bite-sized mini versions stuffed with chocolate ganache or matcha cream.
And if you're in the mood for something cold, try their Bboong Ice Cream — a bungeoppang with an open mouth doubling as a cone for soft-serve ice cream, complete with an array of toppings.
Prices for regular-sized bungeoppang range from 1,500 won to 2,500 won, depending on the filling, while Bboong Ice Cream is available for 4,000 won. The cafe operates from 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays, except for Mondays, and from 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. on weekends.
Chulboozi Espresso is a haven for coffee aficionados looking to pair their "bungeoppang" with a perfectly brewed cup of espresso. Captured from @chulboozi_espresso on Instagram
Chulboozi Espresso, nestled in Seoul's Mapo District, is a haven for coffee aficionados looking to pair a perfectly brewed cup of joe with bungeoppang.
In addition to classic fillings, the fish-shaped treat comes with options like corn butter and mozzarella. But the real star of the menu is the pairing of the crispy pastry with a bittersweet cup of espresso, Einspänner or affogato.
The espresso bar is also a frequented venue for birthday cafe events celebrating K-pop idols like BTS' Jin and DAY6's Young K.
Prices for bungeoppang range from 1,000 won to 2,000 won each, while a cup of espresso is available for 1,500 won. The cafe is open from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m., except on Mondays. (Park Han-sol)
A vendor flattens hotteok, or sweet pancakes, at Namdaemun Yache Hotteok in Seoul's Namdaemun Market, Dec. 12. Korea Times photo by Baek Byung-yeul
'Hotteok': crispy pancakes with fillings
While strolling the chilly streets of Korea, the sizzle of hot oil and the rhythmic press-and-flip motion of vendors making "hotteok," or Korean sweet pancakes, offer irresistible sights, sounds and scents.
The process of making hotteok is a spectacle in itself, involving skillfully tearing a piece of sticky flour dough, stuffing it with sugar, sealing it tightly and then placing it on an oiled pan. It is then flattened with a round tool and flipped to achieve a golden, crispy finish.
The satisfying crunch of the grains paired with the sweet, gooey filling continues to entice both locals and tourists, making hotteok a beloved wintertime treat.
The name hotteok merges "ho," historically used in Korea to refer to people from Central Asia and the Arab regions, with "tteok," meaning rice cake, reflecting its origins from outside Korea. According to the Korea Heritage Service (KHS), it is believed that rice cakes made by people traveling the Silk Road, passing through China before arriving in Korea, evolved into hotteok.
The exact time when hotteok first appeared and became popular in Korea is unclear, but the KHS estimates it was introduced in the late 19th century by merchants from the Chinese Qing Dynasty who entered Joseon.
Even after the fall of the Qing Dynasty, some of these merchants chose to stay, opening restaurants and selling "mandu" (dumplings) and hotteok as a means of livelihood. Over time, these items gradually gained popularity among Koreans, earning a place in the local food culture.
Hotteok has constantly adapted to Korean palates with innovative fillings, ranging from honey and brown sugar for sweetness to more diverse choices.
Originating from the 1950-53 Korean War, the version filled with grain seeds is particularly popular in Busan, where refugees incorporated various seeds into their hotteok.
Today, the variety of fillings extends to "japchae" (pan-fried glass noodles and vegetables), kimchi, red bean paste, ice cream, cheese and even Oreo cookies, cementing hotteok's status as a beloved snack both in Korea and abroad.
As hotteok continues to evolve, it caters to a broad range of preferences, including health-conscious options such as green tea or cornstarch in the dough, alongside traditional versions fried in oil that remain a crowd favorite.
Various kinds of hotteok (sweet pancakes) are made at Namdaemun Specialty Hotteok in Seoul's Namdaemun Market, Dec. 12. Korea Times photo by Baek Byung-yeul
In popular tourist destinations — from Seoul's Insa-dong, known for its traditional goods stores, and Namdaemun Market, the largest traditional market in the country, to Busan's Gukje Market and Jungang Market in Sokcho, Gangwon Province — hotteok stands are a common and welcome sight. Particularly in the winter months, these stalls thrive as locals and visitors alike seek out the warm, comforting treat to fend off the chilly temperature.
Among many hotteok vendors at Namdaemun Market, Namdaemun Yachae Hotteok attracts the longest lines. While this store offers the traditional sugar-filled variant, it is best-known for its signature japchae-filled hotteok.
Despite the cold weather, Dec. 12, I also queued up to taste this savory treat, and after only a 20-minute wait, I was rewarded with the taste of this specialty hotteok.
This hotteok, priced at 2,500 won ($1.75) each, is characterized by being almost deep-fried in oil. When you take a bite, the crispy exterior and moist fillings fill your mouth. This hotteok is best enjoyed dipped in the store's homemade soy sauce, adding a rich flavor that complements the fried dough and filling perfectly.
Another famous hotteok store in the same market, Namdaemun Specialty Hotteok, offers an even broader selection, from traditional sweet fillings and grain seed to inventive combinations such as Oreo cookies, "galbi" (beef short ribs), seafood, kimchi and chicken breast.
A Japanese tourist waiting in line to buy hotteok shared that visiting Namdaemun Market for hotteok is a must for every trip to Korea.
"Hotteok with its crispy exterior and moist interior is an unforgettable Korean street food. Whenever I visit Korea, I make sure to come here and eat hotteok. Trying various types of hotteok adds another fun element to the trip," the tourist said. (Baek Byung-yeul)
"Gyeranppang." or Korean egg bread / gettyimagesbank
'Gyeranppang': Warm, fluffy egg bread
"Gyeranppang," or Korean egg bread, is one of the go-to snacks for those seeking a steamy and fluffy treat to warm up the cold winter on the street.
This street snack, made with a whole egg in between or on top of muffin-style spongy bread, is known to have started at a small shop near Inha University in Incheon in 1984.
The original store, whose name translates to Original Whole Egg Bread, has been a staple for university students opting for small and affordable treats for over 40 years. The owner, who originally sold "pulppang" (bread stuffed with red bean), came up with the egg bread for customers who don't eat red bean, replacing it with egg.
The sweet and savory bread gained popularity and eventually became one of the most well-known Korean street snacks. It can now be found on various areas with some famous vendors, including the popular ones near Exit 8 of Sillim Station on Seoul Metro Line 2 or by Exit 10 of Sinseol-dong Station on Seoul Metro Line 1.
One can also find a vendor that sells egg bread along the streets of Myeong-dong, a popular tourist district literally filled with various types of street snacks.
Different flavors of egg bread from With Egg Bread / Captured from @with_dalgyalbbang on Instagram
Right up the alley by Sookmyung Women's University in central Seoul's Yongsan District, With Egg Bread offers a diverse array of egg bread varieties, providing more wholesome options.
The cafe adds flavorful toppings such as mayonnaise, ham, tomato and cheese to give more flavors to the simple egg bread, along with the original plain option. Some of its popular variations are egg bread with olive and chili sauce, which gives a familiar taste akin to pizza, and a variation with mayonnaise, ham and onions, for customers who want to add creaminess.
With spacious seating and a variety of beverages on the menu from coffee to fruit ade, customers can enjoy a snack break with egg bread and a drink.
For those looking for an upgraded egg bread with a premium touch, Egg Seoul is the place to go. Located near Gangnam-gu Office Station on Seoul Metro Line 7, this cafe offers a modern take on egg bread with savory toppings including sausage, spring onion with cream cheese and pepperoni, to dessert-style options like sweet corn, red beans and butter and Shine Muscat grapes.
Along with the traditional egg bread, its signature item is an egg-shaped cake filled with cream cheese and cheddar cheese. The menu also offers variations like matcha and red bean paste filling or pistachio and chocolate filling.
Egg Seoul offers savory and sweet varieties of egg bread. Captured from @eggseoul.official on Instagram
Although egg bread has been recognized as one of the most popular street snacks in Korea, it is not as widely available as the more common bungeoppang. But the good news is egg bread can be easily made at home with simple ingredients and a microwave or air fryer.
The go-to recipe uses store-bought pancake mix. With the pancake mix powder, you add water or milk as instructed on the package to make the batter. Oil disposable paper cups and pour in the batter, filling it up to about two-thirds of the cup. On top of the batter, drop an egg into each cup, before microwaving for about five minutes or until fully cooked. An air fryer can be used instead of a microwave to cook at 180 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes.
To make it more savory, you can add toppings like diced ham or cheese on top of the egg or in the batter. (Lee Gyu-lee)
Eomuk, or fish cake, is a popular snack in Korea and typically served in skewers, simmered in hot broth. gettyimagesbank
'Eomuk': skewered fish cakes perfect for winter
As temperatures drop in Korea, streets come alive with the comforting aroma of steaming broth and the sight of skewered fish cakes simmering atop food carts.
Known in Korea as "eomuk," or "odeng," this beloved wintertime street snack is more than just a warm bite, but steeped in history and culture.
At its core, eomuk is a savory delicacy made by grinding fish — typically made from whitefish such as cod, pollock, snapper or plaice — into a fine paste, mixing it with flour and seasonings and shaping it into rectangular or round shapes. These eomuk are skewered and then cooked in a rich, often slightly peppery broth, served piping hot and accompanied by a small paper cup filled with the flavorful soup.
The combination of tender fish cake and the warm broth that storms into the mouth in a single bite makes eomuk a quintessential comfort food for Koreans braving the chill of winter.
But why does it go by two names — eomuk and odeng? While both terms translate to "fish cake" in English, their differences lie in cultural and linguistic nuances.
Eomuk is a purely Korean term, referring to fish cakes crafted using traditional methods. Odeng, on the other hand, traces its roots to the Japanese word "oden," reflecting the historical influences that shaped the dish.
The origin of fish cakes can be traced back to ancient China, where chefs of the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC) minced fish into paste to avoid troublesome bones. This technique spread across East Asia, inspiring variations like Japan's "kamaboko" during the Heian period (794-1185) and Korea's "saengseon sukpyeon" in the 1392-1910 Joseon Kingdom era.
Under Japanese colonial rule of Korea (1910-45), the Japanese introduced fish cake factories, particularly in port cities like Busan. Over time, the dish evolved into a local staple. Following the Korean War (1950-53), during a period of scarcity and limited access to protein-rich foods, fish cakes became a popular and affordable source of nourishment for many Koreans.
Today, Busan still remains the epicenter of Korea's fish cake industry, renowned for its quality and variety.
Eomuk boiled in different flavored broths / gettyimagesbank
Eomuk holds a special place in the hearts of Koreans, often enjoyed on the go or as part of a quick meal at bustling street-side carts. Its versatility makes it a popular snack or comfort food, cherished for its satisfying texture and savory flavor.
Stalls offering eomuk are especially common in traditional markets, where eomuk skewers are sold alongside other famous street snacks like "tteokbokki" and "sundae" (stuffed blood sausage).
The Sindang-dong neighborhood in Jung District, central Seoul, has become a hot spot for fans of eomuk and tteokbokki at a time when traditional street carts are becoming rarer. Sindang-dong's famed Tteokbokki Town keeps the nostalgic vibe alive with cozy outdoor booths where visitors can savor steaming skewers of eomuk on chilly evenings.
"It's almost impossible to resist grabbing a skewer when I'm walking home from the subway station near those vendors, especially now that the weather has turned colder," an anonymous 22-year-old college student said, identifying herself as an eomuk lover.
"A warm cup of salty and slightly fishy eomuk broth after lectures is perfect for thawing out my frozen hands — and intestines," she added with a laugh.
For those seeking a more upscale eomuk experience, the nearby neighborhood of Euljiro offers trendy eomuk bars, where skewers are served alongside hot pots where pre-cooked eomuk is lightly simmered to perfection. These bars also feature tables spilling out onto the streets, creating a mix of urban sophistication and street food charm, even if it means embracing the winter chill. (Pyo Kyung-min)
Deli Manjoo, corn-shaped sponge cakes filled with custard cream, are baked at the first Deli Manjoo store in Myeongdong Station in central Seoul. Korea Times photo by Kwon Mee-yoo
Deli Manjoo: custard-filled small delights
In some Korean subway stations, near bus stops or at expressway service areas, a sweet, creamy aroma wafts through the air, proving irresistible to commuters. This delightful scent often comes from the popular franchise Deli Manjoo, known for its delicious corn-shaped sponge cakes filled with custard cream. Despite the rush to catch a train or bus, the enticing aroma of freshly baked Deli Manjoo often stops commuters in their tracks.
Though the taste of Deli Manjoo can sometimes be inconsistent at different locations, there is one spot where the quality is always guaranteed. The first Deli Manjoo store, operating since 1998 in Myeongdong Station on Seoul Metro Line 4, is known for making all its dough and fillings on-site, ensuring the freshest and best Deli Manjoo.
This store's fame was further bolstered earlier this year when it was featured on "Hangout with Yoo," a variety show hosted by Korea's top entertainer Yoo Jae-suk.
What distinguishes the Myeongdong store is its perfectly thin shell, which encases a generous amount of sweet, velvety custard cream, offering a flawless balance of flavor and texture. Most Deli Manjoo treats are baked to order, guaranteeing a fresh, piping-hot snack — with a "very hot" warning to match.
While they are undeniably delicious when warm, the owner also recommends trying them frozen. The frozen version offers a unique texture and amplifies the sweetness, giving it an ice cream-like feel.
Available in small, medium, large and extra-large packets, prices range from 3,000 to 10,000 won ($2.1 to $7), with each piece costing roughly 500 won. (Kwon Mee-yoo)