Italian clothing and fashion accessories brand Brandy Melville opened its first store in the trendy Seongsu-dong neighborhood in eastern Seoul on Jan. 3, sparking a shopping frenzy. The store was packed with customers and long lines formed outside as eager shoppers waited to enter.
Founded in Italy in the 1980s, Brandy Melville gained prominence in the United States with its petite, one-size sweatshirts, shorts, camisoles, and other items, quickly becoming a favorite among young shoppers.
The brand's controversial "one size fits most" policy fueled its success, creating a cult following among teenage girls eager to own its pieces. Hollywood celebrities, including Lily-Rose Depp, the daughter of actor Johnny Depp, have been spotted wearing the brand, further boosting its popularity.
The brand gained recognition in Korea, partly due to endorsements from K-pop stars. For instance, BLACKPINK's Jennie posted a photo on Instagram featuring Brandy Melville clothing, sparking interest among her fans.
However, the brand has been marred by controversies in the U.S., raising questions about how it will be received in Korea.
Controversial policies
The brand's single-size policy has faced criticism for promoting unhealthy body standards. Last year, an HBO documentary, "Brandy Melville & the Cult of Fast Fashion," shed light on how some customers attempted to lose weight to fit into its clothing. Former employees interviewed in the film shared their struggles with eating disorders and low self-esteem during their time working for the company.
Brandy Melville has also faced accusations of racial discrimination, with claims that the company favors hiring young, white women for sales roles while relegating employees of color to less visible positions, such as stockrooms. The documentary featured an interview with one of the company's senior executives, who revealed that CEO Stephan Marsan ordered the closure of a Toronto store after noticing a large number of non-white customers.
The Seoul store has already faced criticism, although for different reasons.
Some shoppers complained about the absence of Korean-speaking staff, especially on the sales floor and at checkout counters. However, a Korea Times journalist who visited the store found Korean-speaking employees present, along with Chinese-speaking staff.
The company reportedly admitted that, during the first few days, there were employees on the sales floor who did not speak Korean.
Brandy Melville's entry into Korea raises concerns about its potential influence on local fashion and body-image culture. Many young Korean women idolize slim K-pop stars and often adopt extreme measures, such as dieting or taking medication, to achieve similar body types.