Walking in the footsteps of the past: Namhansanseong in 1884 (part two)

The Emergency Palace in the early 1900s ― neglected and abandoned. Courtesy of Hyunuk Park

By Robert Neff

Detail of the Emergency Palace in the early 1900s. Courtesy of Hyunuk Park

"[Namhansanseong] was in the past the favorite retreat for the [Joseon] King," declared Ensign George C. Foulk when he visited the site in October 1884 and then went on to add:

"This most notable occupancy was during the last Chinese invasion of Korea, when it was vainly besieged by a Chinese army while defended by its villagers and 120 soldiers. The Queen and Prince having been captured at [Ganghwa Island] and the people at large at the mercy of the Chinese, [King Injo] voluntarily left the fortress and sued for peace."

Foulk's description of the incident seems over-simplified and, perhaps, a little biased and we are left to wonder where he acquired his knowledge. Perhaps it was from the official who met him in front of the emergency palace.

The official, whom Foulk described as being "dressed [in] flowing silk robes of blue, yellow, and crimson, with a retinue of uniformed soldier priests and a native band of boy musicians," served as his guide. Unfortunately, part of the tour does not appear to have been the emergency palace.

In his notes, Foulk wrote:

"Ascending the hill back of the palace slowly over a narrow path in the pine forest to the weird music of the boy band, we came to a graceful [pavilion] raised above the wall ― the stand of the military commandant."

Oehaengjeon ― the king's office ― at the Emergency Palace, May 2020. Robert Neff Collection

This was probably Sueojangdae, where King Injo commanded his small army, and Foulk seems to have been fairly impressed with its location and, compared to the rest of the fortress, wrote quite a bit about it.

"From here a most wonderful panoramic view of the whole river drained area as far as [Ganghwa] was presented. From this elevation (1350 feet) the dark outline of the capital seemed to be directly under Samgak mountain and the river but a winding silver thread in which the distant junks seemed but dots.

"To the west and south was an endless area of hilly country in which the valleys appeared as innumerable dark lines to the eastward and south-eastward craggy frowning mountains rose one above the other from close at hand to as far as the eye could reach bring to them compactness of size and close sites under mountains and hills, habitations were not visible at all except in the flat plain close below; here I counted in one small area, partly broken by sparse hills, seventeen villages."

The throne room at the Emergency Palace, May 2020. Robert Neff Collection

While on the tour he noticed "a reservoir for holding water to be used in time of siege, there long storehouses for food, and a field of jars filled with bean sauce for the garrison. Beyond these came the main part of the village with small fields below it on which enough can be produced to supply the fortress vassals in case of siege."

In addition to the walls of the fortress, there were "nine Buddhist temples with arsenals attached; in these live 120 soldier priests. To the east of the [village] on a second mountain crest is a small walled retreat guarded likewise by Buddhist priests."

The village in front of the emergency palace had (according to Foulk) "no products worth mentioning and no evidence of trade ― the inhabitants being simple peasants [… who] seemed singularly docile, kind to each other, and markedly less rough in general conduct than at any other cities" he had visited.

Sleeping quarters at the Emergency Palace, May 2020. Robert Neff Collection

Foulk claimed ― perhaps rightfully so ― he was the first Westerner to visit the fortress and found the villagers "evinced much curiosity about him" but also "seemed desirous to do all in their power to make my visit pleasant." When he returned to his palanquin, he found it decorated with brilliant red maple branches.

Despite the docile nature of the villagers, the governor and his immediate subordinates did not deign to live among them. In the areas surrounding Seoul, most high officials lived in Seoul and only occasionally visited their posts to transact business.

Content with his short tour, Foulk resumed his journey to Seoul so that he could prepare for his epic journey the following month throughout the southern part of the peninsula.

Namhansanseong is a great day trip for tourists and residents of Seoul. Unfortunately, due to COVID 19 and restoration projects, many of the buildings ― such as Sueojangdae ― are not open. However, if you enjoy a good hike and a beautiful view (now that the skies are clear) ― this is a place to go.