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| The USS Monocacy, Robert Neff Collection |
By Robert Neff
On the evening of May 13, 1883, the American warship U.S.S. Monocacy arrived in Jemulpo harbor. It wasn't its first foray into Korean waters. Almost twelve years earlier ― in the same area ― it had, as one newspaper declared, "engaged in throwing shot and shell into the Corean forts."
This time, however, the ship's arrival was not seen as hostile act but rather one of peace. On board were Lucius Foote, the first American representative to Korea; his wife, Rose; Charles S. Scudder, the personal secretary to Minister Foote; Pierre L. Jouy, who was attached to the legation; and two interpreters ― one was Japanese and the other was Yun Chi-ho.
The following day, Minister Foote was visited aboard the warship by two Korean officials who conveyed King Gojong's good wishes and invited him to Seoul. They assured the American diplomat that they would return within a few days to guide him and his party to the capital. In honor of the visit and as a show of respect, the U.S.S. Monocacy ran the Korean ensign up the front mast and fired a twenty-one gun salute ― the American warship "was the first vessel of any nation to burn peaceful gunpowder in honor of the new flag."
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| A view of Jemulpo circa late 1880s-1890s. Robert Neff Collection |
On May 17th, Minister Foote, accompanied by Captain Cotton, and several of the warship's officers, went to Seoul to formally ratify the treaty between the United States and Korea (which took place on the 19th and on the following day he met with the Korean monarch).
While Minister Foote was in Seoul to ratify the treaty between the United States and Korea, Mrs. Foote (who will from this point be addressed as Rose) took the opportunity to explore Jemulpo, accompanied by a group of naval officers from the U.S.S. Monocacy. Jemulpo at this time was described as "a very small village, consisting of wretchedly-built huts…the temporary Japanese Consulate, and a few sheds under some of which were stored building materials for the new Japanese Consulate, the site had already been dug out. Japanese soldiers occupying a long wooden building in front of the Consulate, and sailors from the "Hiyei Kau" [Japanese warship] gave a little life to an otherwise miserable spot, to which the low mud flats left uncovered at low tide give an additional dreary aspect."
Rose's arrival was met by "crowds of natives [who] surrounded her, touched her, and stared into her eyes. Several dropped down, with faces upon the ground and curiously regarded her high-heeled shoes. So alarming became the demonstrations, that it was deemed advisable for" her to return to the vessel, where she awaited her husband's return. He returned a few days later and took her and the remaining members of his staff back to Seoul to their new home. She had the distinction of "being the first occidental woman to enter ancient Seoul."
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| On the road to Seoul ― the river port of Mapo. Circa 1883. Robert Neff Collection |
ESTABLISHING THE LEGATION
One of the first projects that Minister Foote undertook was to secure a legation compound. Following the Imo Mutiny (also known as the Rice Riot) in July 1882, there were several large estates and homes available ― the homes of noblemen and officials who had died during the revolt. "Among the properties inspected for a United States legation purposes was an ancient Min palace. It asserted a claim of distinct associations, having been the abode of one of the Queen's powerful family." The accounts of mayhem that the former owners had suffered were evidenced by the blood stains on the walls. The minister purchased the property cheaply with his own money, nearly $3,200, but may have done it as a matter of speculation. He boasted to a naval officer that within tens of years the property would probably be worth $50,000.
Like many of the properties purchased or given to the early Westerners including von Mollendorff's residence, this one was said to be haunted. According to Rose's biography the compound, located on a small hill, had "a most fascinating history and was invested with the flavor of romance. There were proud, surviving interests in the gruesome tales of its valiant decapitated Mins, who even now in unquestionable shape, periodically stalked about the premises."
The Footes were proud of their purchase and even noted that the name of the estate meant 'Beautiful Mount,' and was surrounded by acres of woods and stretches of neglected greenswards. They looked forward to renovating the buildings into a beautiful legation. The press in the United States, however, looked upon it negatively:
"Official advices received at Washington from Mr. Foote, the newly appointed U.S. Minister to Corea state that he has taken up his residence in the Capital of that little-known country, but life there is attended with many discomforts and privatations. The only house he has been able to obtain is a rude one of wood and paper, with paper windows, and is situated in an undesirable location in the midst of hovels and filth."
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| The American legation circa 1885. Robert Neff Collection |
Over the next two years, the minister and his wife devoted their efforts to improving the compound. Foote is said to have spent more than $2,000 of his own money in these renovations, and, according to Ensign George C. Foulk (a naval officer attached to the legation), put "his whole fortune" in it.
One of the first remodeling projects Rose undertook was to plant a flower garden. Even though it was a task that brought her pleasure, it was also a test of her fortitude. Amongst the Korean servants "there were gloomy recitals that skulls and headless skeletons [victims of the Imo Mutiny] which had missed honorable burial, had been turned up in the gardens." Nonetheless, Rose persisted in gardening and the flowers, "in time joyfully justified her care, and often became her distinctive messengers to royal friends."
When Dr. George W. Woods of the U.S.S. Juniata visited Seoul in early 1884 he noted the many improvements made under Rose's direction:
"Since I was here less than a month ago, their battalion of Corean workmen, with their Japanese gardener, has done wonders. The roads are all leveled, the stone terracing completed in a beautiful manner and at the corners there are gracefully shaped hibachis, sanded to represent stone, which, placed on pedestals of tile, will take the place of garden vases."
"All the flower beds are bordered with tiles, and, in addition to the already existing shrubbery, many fine plants have been set out, including a larger number of California rose-bushes. Amongst the numerous improvements, they have located a lawn tennis ground, and near it is a pretty pagoda-like building which will eventually be a sudatorium where the wrestlers can take a bath and wash off the sweat of the conflict. The whole place looks very pretty. The quaint little buildings are all touched up 'brightly,' the paths and stone walk are in good order, the spring violets and azaleas, with other early flowers, are in bloom, and the peach, plum, and apricot trees are heavy with blossoms."
Not only was Rose involved in designing and remodeling the legation ― she was, as we shall see tomorrow, involved in many of the day-to-day operations as well as some soft diplomacy.
