The neon sign for Skunk on the Sunset lights an alley in central Seoul's Itaewon, Oct. 30. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

If something smells funny in Itaewon these days, it might be due to Skunk on the Sunset, a newly rebranded bar located on the ground floor of a small building in a particularly narrow alley.

Skunk isn't a new name to the local live music scene, as the name has been affixed to the signs of many earlier punk music venues all around Seoul, including in Sinchon, Hongdae, Mullae and Sindang. All of these have been the work of Won Jong-hee, the charismatic, hardworking and notorious lead singer of punk band Rux, who now brings his focus to central Seoul's multicultural Itaewon.

"I have been friends with the owner of the Sunset Beach space and the building for a long time," Won told The Korea Times. "That friend asked me to manage this space, and I thought it was a good opportunity for me. So, I renamed it from the original Sunset Beach to Skunk on the Sunset, imagining a skunk riding on the sunset."

Despite the makeover, it's still presented as a hole-in-the-wall Itaewon bar, welcoming everyone regardless of musical taste.

The main specialty on Skunk on the Sunset's menu is Long Island Iced Teas, served in bags.

"This place has been famous for its special Long Island Iced Tea recipe for 15 years," Won said. "There's a saying, 'If you come to Itaewon, you have to sip a Long Tea at Sunset.'"

He's also begun serving chicken skewers, setting up a small barbecue out front, and has hopes to expand the food menu in the future.

Won Jong-hee cooks chicken skewers at Skunk on the Sunset in central Seoul's Itaewon, Oct. 26. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Won added that his use of the word "Skunk," which he has been naming his various spaces after for over 20 years, doesn't have any significant meaning.

"I've liked the animal skunk since I was young," he said. "I still like this black-and-white animal that has the cutest and most amusing weapon among so many — its fart. That was the title of Rux's first original song in 1996, and I still like using this name."

The earlier Skunks have all been live music venues. Skunk on the Sunset has an electronic drum set and a DJ booth, and it still hosts live music performances weekly.

There is currently one other Skunk still in existence, the first instance of such overlap in Won's long history with the Korean punk scene. Skunk Sindang is open seven days a week as a bar, but it also is unlikely to ever come back as a full live music venue again.

"Compared to Itaewon, it's much more intimate and private," Won said. "It would be great if, in the future, the party vibe could be in Itaewon, with the after-party feel in Sindang."

After opening in May 2023, Skunk Sindang had about half a dozen shows. But it came to a sudden end in August when the venue hosted a wedding concert, during which an older man defecated in the stairwell. Won and his punk friends were barraged with accusations, and had to stop putting on concerts there.

Won explained that there was more to the situation, however.

"The factors that made the neighborhood uncomfortable included too many people standing in front of the building, the volume being so loud that the building vibrated and the appearance of punks with spiky hair," he said. "These things created a sense of unease, leading to prejudice and misunderstandings. The building owner considered these issues a nuisance to the surrounding community and decided to stop the shows. I tried to persuade them through many discussions, but they were adamant. I decided it was more important to maintain a harmonious relationship with the neighbors, so we compromised and stopped the performances."

Skunk Sindang has since resumed having shows, but only with electronic drums, which are much quieter than analogue ones.

This experience likely helped drive Won toward accepting the offer to run Skunk Itaewon, located in a neighborhood known for its big noise, wild crowds and tolerance of diversity.

"I have neck tattoos, but I feel comfortable in Itaewon," he said.

He emphasized that this insight showed him why so many marginal communities of Korea have grown in Itaewon. "It's not just cultural difference, it's about independence," he said.

"There are still quite a few people in Korea with many prejudices. People who are accustomed to ignorance fear what they don't know, and because they dislike that fearful feeling, they end up hating others without reason. Since it's impossible to fully understand and know everyone in the world, I think it's fundamental as a person not to hold prejudices hastily against people you don't know. Going forward, I hope Itaewon will become a place that can break down the walls of fear in our hearts about differences, with more positive energy, happiness and love."

About his hopes for Skunk entering Itaewon, he said, "My hope is for people who love Itaewon to love it more and for it to spread."

Wearing a bridal veil as a Halloween costume, Kylee works behind the bar at Skunk on the Sunset in central Seoul's Itaewon, Oct. 26. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

Designing spaces

The decor of Skunk on the Sunset has begun changing, from a neon-lit Itaewon bar into more of a punk venue with black walls and posters on display.

The decor is credited to Kylee, Won's American wife, who is often seen working behind the bar.

"Since I was young, I've always felt a deep void inside me, and creating has become my way of quieting that emptiness — like I'm channeling all those feelings into something tangible," she said. "I've always considered myself an artist because it felt like the only identity that fit me. Growing up, art was the one area where I received recognition, as other subjects, aside from English, were difficult for me."

Her artistic work began with drawing and spread to fashion, and she has gained some significant experience recently by decorating Skunk Sindang and on the Sunset. At the former, some of her fashion items are on display. And the bathroom is a work of art, like walking into a life-sized sculpture of a punk venue bathroom.

The sink in Skunk Sindang has an important message, Feb. 23. Korea Times photo by Jon Dunbar

"My current medium of choice, upcycling, was introduced to me by my husband," Kylee said. "Watching him throw paint on jackets, add patches and stud them at random felt raw and spontaneous, and it made me realize that art doesn't have to follow a strict process. Upcycling became a kind of freedom for me, a way to experiment and break away from the rigid rules I had internalized during my university studies in oil painting and realism."

She also credited Won with her love of working with textures, which she says "gives things life and depth."

"My work focuses on combining textures in unexpected ways, whether I'm upcycling clothes or designing spaces like Skunk Sindang and Skunk on the Sunset," Kylee said. "I aim for my creations to feel lived-in and to evolve over time, just like people do."

Skunk on the Sunset, as well as Skunk Sindang, remains as a canvas with much more space for Kylee to cover. This means on every subsequent visit to either space, one is likely to find new changes.

Follow @skunk_ltaewon (with an L instead of a capital I) and @skunk_sindang on Instagram for more information.