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INTERVIEWSoju culture goes deeper than what's in the glass

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Kim Wan-jun, also known as soju artist Funnyjun, sees soju as not just a liquor but a cultural conduit to promote Korean drinking culture to the world. Courtesy of Kim Wan-jun

Kim Wan-jun, also known as soju artist Funnyjun, sees soju as not just a liquor but a cultural conduit to promote Korean drinking culture to the world. Courtesy of Kim Wan-jun

Artist teaches non-Koreans the art of drinking soju
By Ko Dong-hwan

A self-proclaimed upcycling artist, who uses discarded items to create artistic statements, released a book to promote an authentic guide to drinking soju, a clear and affordable alcohol that has been consumed by Koreans for decades.

Kim Wan-jun, known by the artist name Funnyjun, wants to impart to global soju drinkers that drinking soju should not be equated with getting tipsy on any other liquor because it involves certain etiquette. The set of 10 rules, according to Kim, makes soju a uniquely Korean culture. With the book, he wants to no longer leave soju as just a conversation piece. He wants to define subliminal messages behind drinking soju and translate them into multiple languages.

The book, titled "How to Drink Soju," breaks down each step of soju etiquette, from seating to opening a bottle, offering and receiving drinks, clinking glasses and drinking. It also includes dedicated chapters on games often played during soju-drinking sessions — such as "APT.," featured in the recent global hit song by Rose and Bruno Mars — and Korean dishes that pair well with soju.

What Kim especially wants to highlight, however, is not the instructions per se. Rather, he wants to explain the hidden messages behind each minute but "careful" gesture.

For example, a bottle holder must cover its label with the grabbing hand to prevent the glass receiver from noticing the label so that the ensuing conversation does not get influenced by the soju's brand or quality. When pouring and receiving, using one arm or hand implies disrespect to the drinking partner. When clinking, the rim of a younger drinker's glass must be lower than that of the older partner as another expression of respect for seniority.

"I will make the book's English edition and upcoming versions in different languages available on Amazon," said Kim, 52, at the office of Proudcomm, a public relations company he runs in Seoul to finance his artistic profession. The English version's publication is scheduled for Jan. 1.

"It will also be translated into Japanese, Chinese, German, French, Thai and Vietnamese. I have met people from different countries while exhibiting my art overseas. They have volunteered to help me with publishing it in each language."

Soju has an effect like a polygraph, according to Kim. It reveals the true character of drinkers by indulging them to keep having it without self-restraint. Whether being able to control drinking while keeping to the listed etiquette without embarrassing oneself reveals a lot about that person, Kim said.

"Some foreigners in front of convenience stores in Itaewon or Hongdae gulp down soju without using a glass. Of course, however they drink it is up to their choice. But to Koreans who mostly know the etiquette, such scenes can be disturbing to watch," Kim said.

"What if we Koreans grabbed a whisky or wine bottle and took a swig without a glass? Westerners will see us as alcoholics. The book helps non-Koreans learn about soju etiquette. It will allow them to drink soju more responsibly and have more fun."

Funnyjun poses inside his exhibition venue at Complex01 in Hanoi, Vietnam, March 2023. Courtesy of Kim Wan-jun

Funnyjun poses inside his exhibition venue at Complex01 in Hanoi, Vietnam, March 2023. Courtesy of Kim Wan-jun

Funnyjun, the artist

Kim uses his Funnyjun identity to promote his 10 soju rules to the world through offline exhibitions. He exhibits illustrations from his book — all drawn by himself — that demonstrate the correct etiquette. It overcomes language barriers no matter in which countries he hosts an exhibition. He also hosts it as a nonprofit, making his exhibitions a worldwide social campaign rather than a commercial event.

Starting his exhibition career in 2021, Funnyjun debuted outside Korea in Bangkok, Thailand, in December 2022. He continued a month later to Vientiane, Laos, and then moved on to Hanoi, Vietnam, in March 2023.

Funnyjun has drawn attention from major companies. Among 15 in-Seoul exhibitions he has done so far are collaborations with them. Missha Island, an exhibition with cosmetic company Able C&C's flagship brand Missha, was held in Seoul's tourism hotspot Myeong-dong in January. In August, he participated in introducing a pop-up store in Seoul with Lotte Chilsung, one of the country's largest soju producers.

"People in Thailand, Laos and Vietnam found my exhibitions particularly interesting," Kim said. "Many of them took selfies in front of my showcased illustrations, some copying the posture from one of the drawings that showed how to do a love shot."

With his book, however, he is now more betting on the online circulation of his latest brainchild, hoping it will become available in broader parts of the world and reach out to more non-Koreans. His recent appearance to a TV documentary program on KBS is another media exposure he is anticipating to further promote soju worldwide. Produced earlier this year, the third part of the "Rhapsody" series which focused on Korean culinary traditions — entitled "Soju Rhapsody" — is scheduled to air the next month and will hit Netflix the same day. Netflix bought the program for 10 years to stream in 140 countries.

"I unveiled my new liquor creation in that show," Funnyjun said. "It is a concoction of soju and highball. I call it soighball."

Kim Wan-jun introduces 10 etiquette tips for drinking soju in his latest book, 'How To Drink Soju.' Courtesy of Kim Wan-jun

Kim Wan-jun introduces 10 etiquette tips for drinking soju in his latest book, "How To Drink Soju." Courtesy of Kim Wan-jun

Humble liquor

Soju is never a protagonist, according to Kim. The clear, diluted drink from a distilled spirit with a hint of additives rather enlivens those around it, whether food or people. This is where Kim draws a line between soju and wine or whisky.

"Soju pairs well with Korean foods which are mostly strong in savory flavors, like spicy ones. It contributes umami to one's mouth. Such pairing works better than wines or whiskies," Kim said. "And soju is also the cheapest liquor out there in Korea. It attracts no prejudice."

Soju's cultural significance in Korea is that it brings people together regardless of setting and social class, according to Kim. Not only do people drink it, it completes songs, movies, books and games as an element of content.

"'A Glass of Soju' (by Im Chang-jung) was the main song on the soundtrack of 'Parasite.' In 'Squid Game,' there was a scene where Gi-hun drinks soju and emotionally disarms himself. Over 70 Korean songs have used ‘soju' in their titles and over 2,000 Korean songs' lyrics mention the drink at least once," Kim said.

"Soju has inspired so much Korean cultural content. At the same time, it is very egalitarian. It is why the ubiquitous cliché ‘Let's have a glass of soju' among Koreans actually means let us bury the hatchet and talk it all out. Soju also helps with my artistic career. I define each soju-drinking as one of many keys to another new world."

Kim appears in cartoonist Huh Young-man's YouTube show, which also features choreographer Shin Jia who gives a soju-inspired performance. Watch from 6:30.

Who is Kim Wan-jun?

Prior to publishing "How to Drink Soju" in English, he published its original version in Korean in 2021 under Woohaha Company which he had established.

Before starting Proudcomm, Kim served as an executive director of PR at marketing company Hahm Partners from 2015 to 2023. From 2004 to 2014, he managed public relations at Sungkyunkwan University and Korea National Open University. Based on his experiences working at universities, he authored "The Laws of University Public Relations" and began delivering lectures focused on public institutions.

From 1997 to 2003, he worked as an editor for a fashion magazine published by Dong-A Ilbo and as a TV producer at MBC's entertainment department. He later continued his career as a journalist at IT magazine Webcasting.

He graduated from Sungkyunkwan University in Seoul and earned a master's degree in journalism and mass communication from the university's graduate school.

Ko Dong-hwan aoshima11@koreatimes.co.kr


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