Young women crowd the Brandy Melville store in Seongsu-dong, Seoul, Feb. 18. Korea Times photo by Kim Min-ji

Lee, a 22-year-old university student, stood in front of the Brandy Melville store in Seongsu-dong, Seoul, with a curious expression. "I heard they only sell small sizes, so I was curious to see if they would fit me," Lee said.

The Italian women's fashion brand sells most of its products in just one size — extra small or small — catering to slim body types. Since opening its first store in Korea on Jan. 3, the brand has seen explosive popularity. Even on a weekday, the shop was packed with young women in their teens and 20s.

Brandy Melville defies conventional fashion marketing strategies. Instead of offering clothes that fit various body types, it promotes the idea that customers should fit into its clothes.

While the company claims it has a "one size fits most" approach, the reality is that only a limited number of people can wear them. The brand has often been described as catering exclusively to slim individuals, or as a "size 44 brand," a term in Korea for the smallest standard clothing size, roughly equivalent to an extra small or U.S. size 0 to 2.

BLACKPINK's Rose and Jennie wearing Brandy Melville outfits / Captured from Instagram

Despite concerns, the "one size" strategy has been a commercial success. After opening its first U.S. store in Los Angeles in 2009, Brandy Melville has expanded to over 100 locations worldwide within a decade.

The brand's vintage-style designs, reminiscent of teen movie protagonists, have particularly appealed to Generation Z — those born between the mid-1990s and early 2010s. At one point, the "Brandy Melville Challenge," where American teens tested whether they could fit into the brand's clothes, became a social media trend.

In Korea, celebrities such as BLACKPINK's Jennie and Rose have helped boost the brand's recognition.

"There are many trendy designs, so if they fit me, I'd love to buy them," said Kim, a 20-year-old woman who visited the store. "I feel like those with small figures look best in these clothes."

Some analysts believe the one-size strategy aligns with younger consumers' shopping preferences.

"Younger shoppers dislike being pressured by sales associates or feeling watched in stores," said Heo Ji-soo, a professor of clothing and textiles at Seoul National University. " Since there is only one size, they don't need to ask staff for assistance in finding their size."

Concerns over promoting thinness

However, critics argue that the one-size policy reinforces shallow beauty standards and exacerbates body image issues, particularly among young women. The concern is that the brand implicitly sends the message, "You need to lose weight to wear stylish clothes."

Jung Yeon-bo, a sociology professor at Sungkonghoe University, said, "One-size marketing defines a specific body type as the standard or ideal while excluding other diverse body shapes, leading to body shaming. The fashion industry should embrace marketing that promotes body diversity and inclusivity."

Consumer opinions are divided. Lee Won-young, 27, who visited the store, criticized the policy, saying, "One-size marketing is exclusionary and discriminates against those who don't have slim or average body types."

Ha Ji-min, 22, added, "It's problematic for a brand idolized by young girls to continue one-size-only marketing. This is not socially desirable."

Brandy Melville promotional images / Captured from Instagram

On the other hand, some believe brands should have the freedom to set their own marketing strategies. "If people don't like the brand, they can simply shop elsewhere where multiple sizes are available. Consumers should have the right to choose," said Namgoong Rin, 23.

Park Ye-ji, 23, echoed this sentiment, saying, "A commercial brand is not obligated to produce all sizes for the sake of public interest. Just as some brands sell only oversized clothing, one-size marketing should be viewed as a business strategy."

This article from the Hankook Ilbo, the sister publication of The Korea Times, is translated by a generative AI system and edited by The Korea Times.