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Seoul's changing face: A glimpse of the 1920-30s city

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Trolleys and bicycles seem to be the most popular forms of transportation on this day in the South Gate area.  Robert Neff Collection
Trolleys and bicycles seem to be the most popular forms of transportation on this day in the South Gate area. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

Seoul's appearance is constantly changing ― buildings standing today are gone tomorrow. Here are some images of the city from the 1920-30s. See how many you can recognize and find now.

On this postcard of a busy street in Seoul, a woman wrote:
On this postcard of a busy street in Seoul, a woman wrote: "As soon as we were dressed, had breakfast, purchased some brass candlesticks, got a guide + into a rickshaw + away we went. We first visited a large bell which was used many years ago to sound the hours for closing the city gates. Seoul is a walled City + has rather pretty gates." Robert Neff Collection

Pagoda (Tapkol) Park has always been a popular site for tourists and the citizens of Seoul. One early visitor wrote:
Pagoda (Tapkol) Park has always been a popular site for tourists and the citizens of Seoul. One early visitor wrote: "This turtle has two holes for nostrils. Because the turtle is sacred, the Korean gentlemen stick tobacco in the holes to sanctify it." Robert Neff Collection

Namsan Peak in the past ― its beauty was sometimes marred by politics.  Robert Neff Collection
Namsan Peak in the past ― its beauty was sometimes marred by politics. Robert Neff Collection

The Post Office and Bank of Chosen.  Robert Neff Collection
The Post Office and Bank of Chosen. Robert Neff Collection

The Independence Gate ― built as a symbol of Korea's independence from foreign powers. A little over a decade later, Korea would be deprived of its independence.  Robert Neff Collection
The Independence Gate ― built as a symbol of Korea's independence from foreign powers. A little over a decade later, Korea would be deprived of its independence. Robert Neff Collection

Another view of the South Gate district.  Robert Neff Collection
Another view of the South Gate district. Robert Neff Collection

Looking toward Gwanghwamun ― a lot has changed.  Robert Neff Collection
Looking toward Gwanghwamun ― a lot has changed. Robert Neff Collection

A view from the South Gate.  Robert Neff Collection
A view from the South Gate. Robert Neff Collection

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books including, Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.




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