Recently, a common topic that's been central to conversations among many scientists, environmental activists and chefs alike is the intersection of environment, humanity, food and sustainability.

For decades now, experts in environmental studies have sounded the alarm: our planet has already surpassed the 1.5 degrees Celsius threshold of warming — a critical guardrail of climate change — and the situation is not improving. Since the industrial revolution, humans have relentlessly ravaged the Earth, accelerating its degradation far beyond what it would have faced naturally over its 4.5-billion-year history without human interference. The question now is what sort of environment will our future generations inherit?

Now, you might be thinking how this seems like an unusual subject for an op-ed from a chef. If you were expecting discourse on culture and cuisine, you might find this topic even more disappointing. However, this issue is a sobering societal reality that is still unfolding around us, one that the public might be aware of but perhaps hasn't fully grasped the gravity of. Nonetheless, environmental sustainability has become the hottest topic in the culinary world over the past few years, and chefs, being at the frontline, arguably feel the changes in our environment most acutely.

Even for me, I remember a time, 20 years ago, when sourcing fresh, clean, and natural ingredients wasn't much of a hassle. However, now we're grappling with challenges like sourcing Ayu sweetfish from clean waters or obtaining Matsutake mushrooms, whose cultivation seems impossible. And those pollack fish that used to teem off the coast of Korea 50 years back? Not a sighting in the last decade. The supply and timing of such ingredients are shifting each year due to erratic climates, with prices soaring daily.

But it's not just about the ingredients. Eating habits are shifting dramatically too, with dietary preferences like veganism and pescetarianism becoming more prevalent even in Korea. From a culinary and restaurateur standpoint, if we fail to embrace these societal shifts, evolve our menus, and adapt our restaurant operations, we won't be able to sustain ourselves.

Recently, I received an email from a former colleague in New York. It was about Eleven Madison Park, the upscale French restaurant where we worked together a decade ago, maintaining its coveted Michelin three-star status yet again. This time as a vegan restaurant.

EMP, as it's affectionately known, was once hailed as one of the finest French establishments, boasting over a decade of Michelin three-star recognition, New York Times four-star accolades, World's Best titles, James Beard awards, and countless other prestigious honors.

Its abrupt transition to a full-vegan course dining experience surprised many, but owner and chef Daniel Humm believes it's a step towards preparing for the future. According to him, traditional meat-centric farming and husbandry practices have a profoundly negative impact on our planet and its environment. The meat-eating culture, he contends, is fundamentally detrimental to humanity and our planet's health.

While this is an idealistic goal for many restaurants looking to reduce their environmental impact, it isn't easy, especially in Korea where plant-based resources are scarce and expensive.

When I look at my own Texas barbecue smokehouse, which has been diligently serving patrons for the past decade, I feel the weight of responsibility knowing that this type of cuisine is not sustainable for our planet. To transition to a more sustainable practice, we've adopted a keen interest in incorporating more vegetables into our menus, focusing on dishes that spotlight plant-based ingredients and running our operations with zero waste in mind.

We're endeavoring to offset our heavy reliance on meat consumption through alternative means that benefit the Earth. In our current venture into Korean cuisine, we're keen on creating more dishes centered around ingredients that would otherwise go to waste, such as fermented foods like kimchi or jang-ajji, or dishes like mandu (dumplings) that help curb food waste.

The Earth may indeed outlive us, but we cannot survive without it. If we want to continue enjoying healthy food, clean air and water, we need to start by changing what's on our dining tables today.

Choi Ji-hyung is head chef of Lee Buk Bang, a restaurant specializing in "sundae" (pig intestines stuffed with various ingredients) in western Seoul's Mapo District. He breaks the stereotype of Korean street food and brings it to the level of haute cuisine. His restaurant earned a Michelin Plate distinction in 2019, first as a restaurant serving sundae, and it maintains the accolade.