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Theater restaurant offers Shakespeare-inspired menu

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Polpo Pasta, octopus and black squid ink pasta visualizing King Lear's downfall, is the main course for a collaboration menu created by Central Yunit and the National Changgeuk Company of Korea in celebration of changgeuk (traditional Korean opera) adaptation of Shakespeare's 'King Lear.' Courtesy of Central Yunit

Polpo Pasta, octopus and black squid ink pasta visualizing King Lear's downfall, is the main course for a collaboration menu created by Central Yunit and the National Changgeuk Company of Korea in celebration of changgeuk (traditional Korean opera) adaptation of Shakespeare's "King Lear." Courtesy of Central Yunit

National Theater of Korea's Central Yunit collaborates on changgeuk production 'Lear'
By Kwon Mee-yoo

Central Yunit, a farm-to-table restaurant located inside the National Theater of Korea, at the base of Mount Nam in Seoul, unveiled an innovative culinary experience that transports diners into the world of Shakespeare's "King Lear."

The menu, created in collaboration with the National Changgeuk Company of Korea, draws inspiration from the "changgeuk" (traditional Korean opera) adaptation of "Lear," which was acclaimed for its portrayal of King Lear's descent into madness through the Korean narrative music style known as "pansori."

Each dish on the "Lear" menu is accompanied by a card that describes the characters and story, enhancing the thematic dining experience.

King Lear's three daughters from left, Goneril, Regan and Cordelia in a scene from 'Lear' by National Changgeuk Company of Korea / Courtesy of National Changgeuk Company of Korea

King Lear's three daughters from left, Goneril, Regan and Cordelia in a scene from "Lear" by National Changgeuk Company of Korea / Courtesy of National Changgeuk Company of Korea

The meal begins with three amuse-bouches, each symbolizing one of Lear's daughters.

"The taco represents the eldest Goneril. I tried to capture her somber, yet secretive nature with a shrimp encased in a black taco shell, covered with aioli. The contrast between the crunchy shell and the tender shrimp mirrors the complex duality of the character," Park Sun-woo, head chef of Central Yunit, told The Korea Times, April 17.

The second daughter, Regan, is captured with a red-colored cannoli.

"Regan's cannoli is made from a blackish-red shell, tinted with beet to lend a touch of glamor, reflecting her winning of Edmund's love. Filled with cream cheese and a whole blueberry, the filling bursts from the shell, symbolizing the eruption of deep-seated human desires," Park explained.

'Lear' special menu's three amuse-bouches, each symbolizing one of Lear's daughters / Courtesy of Central Yunit

"Lear" special menu's three amuse-bouches, each symbolizing one of Lear's daughters / Courtesy of Central Yunit

The youngest and King Lear's favorite, Cordelia, is a ratatouille in a black tart shell, topped with grated cheese.

"The choice of ratatouille is inspired by her marriage to the French King. This amuse-bouche is warmer than the two others, highlighting the dutiful and sweet character of Cordelia," he said.

The main course features Polpo Pasta, with octopus and black squid ink pasta visualizing King Lear's downfall, inspired by the changgeuk's innovative set design which used water to represent the emotional and physical landscape of the characters.

Kim Jun-su as King Lear in 'Lear' by National Changgeuk Company of Korea / Courtesy of National Changgeuk Company of Korea

Kim Jun-su as King Lear in "Lear" by National Changgeuk Company of Korea / Courtesy of National Changgeuk Company of Korea

Park, the chef, drew inspiration from the dark, eerie elements of the sea, as well as images of death and mythical krakens, which he translated into the octopus leg dish.

"While reviewing video materials of 'Lear,' I was particularly struck by the set's black tones and the use of water, which inspired me to mirror these elements into this dish," he explained.

"For the characters, as I brainstormed, I tried to put many thematic elements at once in the beginning. Eventually, I decided to focus on the symbolic elements of the characters and distilled them into simple yet impactful dishes."

Black Ade pays homage to Goneril, the eldest daughter of King Lear. Courtesy of Central Yunit

Black Ade pays homage to Goneril, the eldest daughter of King Lear. Courtesy of Central Yunit

Complementing the dishes are three themed drinks. The Cosmopolitan cocktail, crowned with bubbles, represents Edmund's insatiable thirst for power.

The bitter Negroni, symbolic of King Lear's descent into disgrace, features an orange peel garnish representing his crown and is accompanied by a lit cinnamon stick to enhance its aroma.

The non-alcoholic Black Ade pays homage to Goneril, who poisons her sister Regan. This black mojito symbolizes the lethal potion and is visually striking, served over dry ice to create a dramatic smoky effect.

The course, including three amuse-bouches, a main dish and a drink of choice, is priced at 35,000 won ($26). Originally intended to be served during the nine-day run of "Lear," which ran from March 29 to April 7, the popularity of the menu has led to its extension throughout April.

"Since our restaurant is located within the National Theater of Korea, many theatergoers seem to enjoy this type of collaboration between theater and dining," Park said, adding that sales of the special menu soared before and after the show.

Central Yunit is a restaurant inside the National Theater of Korea. Courtesy of Central Yunit

Central Yunit is a restaurant inside the National Theater of Korea. Courtesy of Central Yunit

Central Yunit, an F&B endeavor by Sungbo Chemicals, a Korean agricultural chemicals manufacturer, stands as a pivotal component of the company's overarching strategy to amalgamate agriculture with other sectors, augmenting value through what is referred to as the "sixth industrialization."

Lee Hyun-joo, contents director at Yunit, emphasized the restaurant's commitment to innovation.

"The company's goal is to integrate agriculture with secondary and tertiary industries and Yunit serves as a venue for food and culture. This is one of the reasons why we've implemented the smart farm system in our restaurants and cafes to supply fresh produce directly," Lee said.

"We hope to continue collaborating with the National Theater of Korea, introducing more inspired dishes alongside upcoming performances."

Central Yunit plans to continue its collaboration with the National Theater of Korea, promising more performances transformed into gastronomic delights.

Kwon Mee-yoo meeyoo@koreatimes.co.kr


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